Fuel Injection Correction

[Accord2nrz]

By default the emanage blue can only automatically correct for a 50% over stock increase. How to determine if your injectors are too big? take your factory injector size and divide it in half. Add that number to your base number. This is the amount the emanage can handle on its own.

How to set your emb to correct for this amount.

Under Main Parameter Settings you will see a blank box then a divided sign another box then a final box saying correction factor.

The first box is your factory setting the second box is your new injector size hit enter then save and update the main unit and boom your emanage will correct all the maps for the new value so your vehicles idles like stock.

[Dzaster]

So then anything more than the auto conversion that the Blue does can pretty much still be done with manual adjustments--within reason?

[Accord2nrz]

Yeperz. It will just take some patience on the tuner.

[Dzaster]

Alright! Alright! Thanks for that.

[zamiex]

what happen the new injectors not change..
example my injectors original are 390 but already change to 450.
i checked my setting but the tuner didnt change the setting..
Q: any effect to my engine? can i simply change it?

[Accord2nrz]

your emb can handle 585cc injectors max without manual correcting the air fuel tables.

Not changing the settings will make your car run pig rich and more than likely make your engine "stumble" as it goes into boost.

open the parameter settings then enter in the original and new values then hit enter and save the change.

[zamiex]

after doing that, do i need to retune my car?

[Dzaster]

I think Accord is saying you are good to go "as is" since your injectors are still within the Blue's "self correcting" range. At least taht is what I gather.

[Accord2nrz]

No need for a retune, however a fine tune will be required the point in which your car goes into open loop.

You will know when this happens becuase under 80% engine load your car (SHOULD) go extremely rich if it requires fine tuning.

[leiden]

Does anyone else have any problems getting the car to idle with injector correction?

I used 340/540 and it will barely idle but runs fine everywhere else? Std injectors are 340cc and new ones are 540cc

[Accord2nrz]

540cc is too high for the emb to allow for correct idle. Your baseline is 340.

50% over stock is 510cc. You will have to manually adjust for the low idle OR adjust the idle cable so that your car idles a tad higher than normal.

[Dzaster]

My stock injectors are 185, the new are 440, the EMB will only correct up to 277.5.

So if it is outside the realm of the EMB's autocorrection does it do any correction or is just left all up to be manually corrected through user input?

So like it'll auto correct 277 but then I have to further correct the new values from the 277 auto correct values.

Oh, and this would be all on a fresh map.

Is the "Additional Injection Map" where the manual fuel tuning takes place?

[Accord2nrz]

correct. In the main unit parameters you have to put in the original setting and then 270cc. Then go to the additional injection map and add fuel from there til you have achieved the desired results.

[Dzaster]

Alright thanks. That makes sense.

[Dzaster]

correct. In the main unit parameters you have to put in the original setting and then 270cc. Then go to the additional injection map and add fuel from there til you have achieved the desired results.

As I'm dealing with it now, I was thinking, if the 440's with the auto correction are brought down to where the care thinks it's 277cc injectors, isn't it still rich by 92cc's as its treating the 440's as 277's. I'm just confused because you said we'd need to "add fuel".

I must be missing something.

[Accord2nrz]

the whole goal in scaling the injectors is so the car behaves as normal during idle right?

Well if your injectors are above the max allowable for correction in the emanage then you have to manual add some more fuel so you can stay under the acceptable 75% injector duty cycle while your into boost.

[miksatx]

By default the emanage blue can only automatically correct for a 50% over stock increase. How to determine if your injectors are too big? take your factory injector size and divide it in half. Add that number to your base number. This is the amount the emanage can handle on its own.

How to set your emb to correct for this amount.

Under Main Parameter Settings you will see a blank box then a divided sign another box then a final box saying correction factor.

The first box is your factory setting the second box is your new injector size hit enter then save and update the main unit and boom your emanage will correct all the maps for the new value so your vehicles idles like stock.
so in the support tool manual under 9. parameter setting page 18 states it can control 150% larger than factory. now with pointed out i would agree that 50% would be ok.

[deangtturbo]

Hey dzaster, how did you downscale your injectors after the automatic injector change? Iv fitted 460cc instead of 290cc and the automatic change dont seem to be enough. My car hardly starts its overfueling that much.

[Dzaster]

the whole goal in scaling the injectors is so the car behaves as normal during idle right?

Well if your injectors are above the max allowable for correction in the emanage then you have to manual add some more fuel so you can stay under the acceptable 75% injector duty cycle while your into boost.
Accord, DUDE! Forgive me man. I ding-dong'd it big time! I read this over and over and just could not grasp it, how I was running rich with the setting I have and yet you are telling me to add mor ein the add. injector map.

correct. In the main unit parameters you have to put in the original setting and then 270cc. Then go to the additional injection map and add fuel from there til you have achieved the desired results.
The light finally came on when I re-read this post just now^^^^^^^.

All this time I had it set to:
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/autocorrect.png

When you are advising the proper entry would be (injector difference ~150%):
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/autocorrect2.png


And with this new auto correct entry the EMB will now trim the 440 injectors too much so then I would need to manually add. Did I get it right? I just feel like all the entries I make in the EMB don't result in any change in my AFR's. With the setting's I'm running now I've been lean at like 10.8 AFR at idle. I tried trimming fuel -25 at 1000rpm by use of the Airflow map and nothing, so tried to trim more and more up until -50(max trim) and have seen no change of AFR at idle. I will have to make the appropriate updates and retune all together.


Hey dzaster, how did you downscale your injectors after the automatic injector change? Iv fitted 460cc instead of 290cc and the automatic change dont seem to be enough. My car hardly starts its overfueling that much.
If you did like me and just entered the straight up injector difference of--for you--290 to new 460 injectors in the auto correct, you may have to change the new injector number to 435 because the EMB is only capable of auto correcting 150% injector size difference.

But if you still need to trim them, you can only do so by use of the Airflow map as my understanding is that you cannot trim fuel with the Additional Injector Map.

[Accord2nrz]

Ok dzaster you've got the concept, Please take a screen capture of your airflow map and your additional injection map.

If your sitting at 10.8 at idle you are way to Rich, not lean. I'm assuming that was a type. In any case in the injection map i think you can put in a negative number. Continue to work it out in your injection map, becuase any change you make in the airflow map is going to alter your timing and then you will need to advance or retard timing based on that.

[Dzaster]

Oh good to know.

I haven't made the change yet to the injector auto correct so the settings I have in the injector map will not pertain to the new injector correction.

I didn't realize that we can trim fuel in the Injector map as well. I thought I read trim could only be done in Airflow, very good to know.

Oh yeah, typo, I meant RICH.

I will need to make changes when I can do some street tuning so may not have the pic of the airflow map up anytime today.

Thanks for the confirmation and help man.

[shootz]

I have idling problems even w/o new injectors... still trying to figure that one out.

[94blackmx5]

some cars can actually idle slightly larger injectors than they came with. for example my miata came with 254cc injectors factory. i'm thinking of using a set of 430cc i found used pretty cheap that would mean i would have to set my emb to 287 and 430. From what i have been told by other miata drivers it should still idle well. probably not 14.7 but as long as i'm around 14 afr at idle it will still be smooth. but if a car came with 185cc injectors and your trying to get it to idle at 90cc over stock that it's not going to be so smooth. From what i can tell try to stay within 30-35cc's and it should idle reasonably well

[Dzaster]

So off boost an not under any substantial load, say just cruising along, AFR should be around 14? If so,is it supposed to be so all the way til boost?

And my car starts and idles the 440's pretty well, just rich. I need to make some changes to the emanage still to get it set right.

[94blackmx5]

stoichiometric is 14.7 that should be your goal for idle. actaully check this out. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio i'm not saying to shoot for this throughout your rpm band but that is the ideal afr. now on a forced induction engine to be safe most try to keep things a little rich between 11 and 12.5 to 1 this keeps everything in a safe operating mode. If you have an egt gauge, i'm told you see much cooler temps with a rich afr as compared to a lean one.

[Dzaster]

Right, I pretty much am good when in boost but off boost am at 11's 12's still. So off boost 14.7?

[94blackmx5]

you will see an improvement in gas mileage and overall smothness of the engine. i would say shoot for 13-14 just to be safe. on honda forums i've heard of some trying get afr's in the low 15's for cruising but i don't think it's really needed

[RPW00Mirage]

Ok dzaster you've got the concept, Please take a screen capture of your airflow map and your additional injection map.

If your sitting at 10.8 at idle you are way to Rich, not lean. I'm assuming that was a type. In any case in the injection map i think you can put in a negative number. Continue to work it out in your injection map, becuase any change you make in the airflow map is going to alter your timing and then you will need to advance or retard timing based on that.

wait - so i can enter a NEGATIVE number into the additional injection map?

[Dzaster]

yeah, I was stunned by that as well as I thought there was no trimming done from the Additional Injector Map. It's been said it can be done. I have yet to do it.

[RPW00Mirage]

that EXPLAINS EVERYTHING. ugh. was getting so sick of changing my timing evertime i changed my airflow map.

[Dzaster]

Hmmmmmm...................my additional injector map don't allow (-) values.

I also tried inputting 185(original) and 275(150%) and was at 8.8AFR. barely idled.

I initially had no values set at idle in any of the maps for fueling. I then tried the (-) in the add. inj. map and that wouldn't stick so I moved on to add and remove at idle in teh airflow and did not improve anything.

So I am back at the injector auto correction values that I originally had, 185 before, 440 after--which is the true injector change. I get about a 11AFR at idle with this.

Any other ideas?

Oh and here is my map. I trimmed it a hair after a couple runs yesterday with the new meth/water injection install, but I have some datalogginig with map trace screen shots to decypher today and make more corrections.
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/Injectormapaftermethandslighttrim.png


That was pretty much what my map was like when experimenting with the auto inj. correction.

[miksatx]

Hmmmmmm...................my additional injector map don't allow (-) values.

I also tried inputting 185(original) and 275(150%) and was at 8.8AFR. barely idled.

I initially had no values set at idle in any of the maps for fueling. I then tried the (-) in the add. inj. map and that wouldn't stick so I moved on to add and remove at idle in teh airflow and did not improve anything.

So I am back at the injector auto correction values that I originally had, 185 before, 440 after--which is the true injector change. I get about a 11AFR at idle with this.

Any other ideas?

Oh and here is my map. I trimmed it a hair after a couple runs yesterday with the new meth/water injection install, but I have some datalogginig with map trace screen shots to decypher today and make more corrections.
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/Injectormapaftermethandslighttrim.png


That was pretty much what my map was like when experimenting with the auto inj. correction.
do you do any corrections in the additional injector map?

[Dzaster]

That is the additional injector map. And yeah I want to try and do all my fueling corrections tehre if possible as the airflow map I hear alters timing as well.

[Accord2nrz]

I have idling problems even w/o new injectors... still trying to figure that one out.


Shootz, If your car is not designed to read boost in stock form then what is happening is your map or maf sensor is getting overwhelmed and going into safe mode causing the car to idle like crazy and soemtimes shut off.

[Accord2nrz]

the Stoic Air/Fuel ratio 14.7 to is ideal for the mixture itself to provide a complete burn within the chamber. While cruising you actually want to try and stay between 14. and 15. reason being is becuase just lean understoich provides the most power on a naturally aspirated vehicle. When you add in things like 92/3 octane and water methanol you combustion can handle alittle leaner becuase the mixture is more resistance to detonation.

trying to remove fuel I think i have used negative values. in the additional injection map but i had to input it like -4.5 or something to that effect. I'm not in the states right now so I can't look at my maps. if you're cruising and the car is staying anywhere in the 14 range you're good, no need to make adjustments becuase the car is already adjusting for different things such as atmospheric pressure, water vapor in the air, etc....

I hope this answered someones question in some way. =)

[Dzaster]

Its, at the least good info and the -4.5 is a suggestion worth trying for me. I get happy when I see 13AFR. I'm gonna change my oil today as I'm sure this rich issue is thinning it down.

I sure hope I can figure out a way to trim this withought having to cough up for something else.

One more thing, is it possible/ok to just use only the greddy emanage MAP and clamp the stock MAP from the get go? So the Greddy MAP sensor would be reading vacuum as well?

[Dzaster]

Just reporting back with another "no dice" on the negative value entry in the EMB injector map. Just won't let you even put in the - symbol.

However, I did adjust airflow a bit more and have gotten somewhat better cruising AFR between 13 and the stoich-ster off boost. I wonder what my timing is doing though.:confused:

I still get 10.5-11.2 at idle. Just idle is messing me up. If I can just get that sqaured away.

[miksatx]

That is the additional injector map. And yeah I want to try and do all my fueling corrections tehre if possible as the airflow map I hear alters timing as well.
oooppps (glasses on now) i don't know the #s just don't look right. are you doing map trace when you're running real time?

[Dzaster]

Actually, I've just started more detailed tuning. That was to get me running. I am diong map trace and datalog with EmanageTools and my AFR incorporated. I actually did some modifying to my map. However, my problem is not the parts with values in them--well not so much. My problem is the low rpm and off boost--pretty much where most is zeroed out. I am/was super rich. I think I got a better handle on the cruising but idle I cannot change. it runs the richness steady there. But it idles perfect, just rich on the windbad.

[miksatx]

why do you use a ajustable rrfpr instead of a 1:1 ajustable fpr?

[maxgtr2000]

Do you have the anti-stall activated? I initially got my map from another turbo maxima owner with a similar setup and it had antistall activated, it caused my afr to be about 10 at idle. Once i turned that madness off it was normal. If it is active remember to lower the values there to get the idle right.

[Dzaster]

Sorry, I looked up the details and of this aftermarket FPR and it is, in deed, 1:1.

"Features a 1:1 ratio of boost to fuel pressure increase, with an adjustable base pressure. (Fixed Ratio, Rising Rate, Adjustable base)".

So that is what I'm using.

[Accord2nrz]

one to one means that you are increasing the fuel directly in proportion to the amount of boost your pumping through the system. An adjustable would definetly be better becuase its probably why your running so rich. Your telling the emanage to add more fuel and the FPR is continually adding fuel as well basically double tapping your overfueling issue. if you can reduce the pressure on the FPR 60 - 70 PSI should be sufficient to start with. then readjust your injectors.

Actually you should probably go alittle lower since your injectors are so far over stock.

[Dzaster]

Makes perfect sense Accord, what you just explained about double impact. However, I have it set to 38psi at idle. Adjusted like this and set to run 10psi of boost, this means that I only get 48psi fuel pressure at full boost right? If so then turning down the FPR would not be the best option for risk of not having enough fuel pressure up top.

[Accord2nrz]

That would be where increasing the duty cycles of your injectors on the top end comes into play. have you logged to see what your cycles are at now? They're probably somewhat low since they are so large. I assume you have the 255lph pump also?

[miksatx]

Makes perfect sense Accord, what you just explained about double impact. However, I have it set to 38psi at idle. Adjusted like this and set to run 10psi of boost, this means that I only get 48psi fuel pressure at full boost right? If so then turning down the FPR would not be the best option for risk of not having enough fuel pressure up top.

whats the stock pressure? with the vacuum hose off whats the pressure?

[Dzaster]

Without the vac line its at 43psi, then with the line I have it set at static 38psi.

Accord, I upgraded my fuel pump to a Supra 7mgte fuel pump.

And as far as total injector duty cycle, at around 7.5psi or so it was at like 47% total injector duty cycle. Here is the log I got that iinfo from. The 3rd gear pull.

http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/766008/Emanage%20Blue/Dzaster%27s%20datalog.zip

One more thing, my stock injectors were high impedance and my new Supra 7mgte 440cc's are low impedance. I am wondering if wiring a resistor inline per each injector to lower impedance would help alleviate some of this running rich. Note: There are a great wealth of guys with these cars and motors who run the different impedance with no probs.

[miksatx]

guess thats your headache you have to live with lmao. personally i run the same impedance for ease of tuning.

[Accord2nrz]

Your going to have to put a resistor in there or get new injectors becuase the impedance is going to shorten the life of the injectors your using now.

Alsoif you were to use High impedance with a low impedance system you burn out your ecu quickly.

Definetly resolve the mechanical and electrical problems before focusing on the fine tune.

it could easily be the problem as to why your injectors are acting funny at idle.

[Dzaster]

I actually played with my TPS today and have been able to bring the AFR to a steady 11.2--11.5, while also setting the idle timing to -8*. That is of some good news to me.

The resistors are pretty much my last optoin and so I'll be getting those tommorrow.

I've not done much tuning because I've been mainly trying to deal with this and the meth injection kit. I'm hoping the resistors are the ticket.

[Accord2nrz]

I actually played with my TPS today and have been able to bring the AFR to a steady 11.2--11.5, while also setting the idle timing to -8*. That is of some good news to me.

The resistors are pretty much my last optoin and so I'll be getting those tommorrow.

I've not done much tuning because I've been mainly trying to deal with this and the meth injection kit. I'm hoping the resistors are the ticket.


Focus on getting your system stable without the meth injection. Trust me, adding too many variables makes the process impossible to tune almost and can ruin you system one component at a time.

[Dzaster]

Focus on getting your system stable without the meth injection. Trust me, adding too many variables makes the process impossible to tune almost and can ruin you system one component at a time.
Well, the only problem I have with the EMB is the off boost AFR. Its probably just a matter of too large injector diff. for the EMB to compensate for.

As for the meth kit, I felt I had to get it installed and working at least, or I'd have to retune after installation.

Like I said though, its just the off boost AFR--which with that the meth is practically none existent with the tune. I've put off the VTEC meth engagement as a member here has good insight on a preferred relay for the system.

Today I will install the resistors and see where that takes me. If not, then I will deal until I muster up the change toupgrade some electronics--ECU or EMU.

[shootz]

Sweet, you got the meth to work. Can you log w/ the WB02 through eManage?
***Interested***

[Dzaster]

Sweet, you got the meth to work. Can you log w/ the WB02 through eManage?
***Interested***
Yes, I'm able to lot the wideband.

[shootz]

Where are you controlling the meth injection from... which wire? Also, did you have to adjust your jumpers to enable the vtec output or were you able to do that through software and leave the jumpers alone?

[Dzaster]

Oh, sorry, I am still using the Hobbs switch. I am actually waiting on a relay to try the meth injection. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

[Dzaster]

Do you have the anti-stall activated? I initially got my map from another turbo maxima owner with a similar setup and it had antistall activated, it caused my afr to be about 10 at idle. Once i turned that madness off it was normal. If it is active remember to lower the values there to get the idle right.
Sorry Max, I missed your post here. The anti engine stall feature was not activated until a few days ago, and I've been rich from day 1.

However, a break through for me, RESISTORS. I am cruising with 14AFRs and idle with 13.5-14.5AFR. We have happiness here. It doesn't seem like my boosting AFR's have really changed either. They are still rich up top but that is because I haven't really tuned there yet, especially with teh meth/water kicking in around there.

I do thanks you guys for slapping me up on this one. Its just that I've been told it prolly won't work or it isn't needed. Well, for me it was needed.

Since I installed the resistors just after teh ECU I wanted to be sure it was right so I check the resistance at the injector plug/harness and I got 3.9ohms so it was good.

I also drove around tonight about an hours worth and really had no gurgling back fire when cruising--which I would get a lot of previously.

We have hapiness right here.;)

[Dzaster]

Anybody know if the Injector Change setting where you set before and after injector size make its correction with airflow, which in turn would have any effect on timing? If so, when we use the injector correction our timing is also being retarded as well, correct?

I'm about to test this by disconnecting the EMB and shooting the timing again. I shot timing yesterday with everything zeroed, I just didn't zero out the Injector Change settings.

Here is a datalog that has me wondering if the Injector Change does alter airflow voltage. I have my stock MAP sensor clamped at 3.6V but the output is always considerably lower than 3.6V even when I hit past 3.6V.
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/MAPClamplowerV.png

[maxgtr2000]

Interesting, I never thought about that. That is something to think about, the injector correction factor. When I looked at my timing in obdII at 2300 rpm and 4th gear it was reading 43 degrees which seems really high. But it is like 5 degrees at idle. You have a point, clearly by looking at your post shows that output considerably lower. I have wondered this about my afm output as well but it makes sense now.

[Dzaster]

Oh yes, I did some testing and the answer is YES the injector correction does alter the airflow output. I tested with and without the injector correction--although without the correction it wouldn't idle unless I kept on the gas some.

However, here is what really concerns me now, and I believe this has much to do with your, maxgtr2000, ignition timing findings on the OBDII. If I am correct in saying that MAP sensor voltage(load) has a direct effect on ignition timing--higher load = timing retard, less allows more advance timing--then perhaps the thing that must be taken into account is the fact that since the Injector Size Correction is altering(dropping) Airflow Output Voltage to make larger injectors tolerable at idle and cruise, then that should also mean that the ECU is thinking that there is less load on the engine at a higher RPM, therefore it will allow for a more advanced timing. Whereas, if it had seen the actual MAP voltage and TRUE load it prolly would not allow so much timing advance.

[Dzaster]

I popped open this random datlog from yesterday and look at the Airflow Voltage in/out difference and man its nearly 1.5 volts in diffence. I'm really wondering what kinda of timing might the ECU advance with that kind of reading.
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/airflowoutputdiff.png

Anybody else have some datalogs that they'd be willing to share a similar image to confirm or disprove my findings?

Perhaps, for the EMB users, we might could use some kind of adjustable MAP voltage simulator for when we enter boost it sends a higher voltage to the ECU suggesting that it not allow so much advance in timing.:confused:

Thoughts?

[maxgtr2000]

I think one way is to check the maf voltage scaling to see what rpm range is for the given voltage. I remember when I used to do ignition retard just using maf voltage for the boost range voltages. On the maxima forum there was an rpm scale that showed timing degrees for the given rpm range for an n/a engine. It was mostly in the 20s. So seeing over 30 surpized me. I wouldn't worry too much with your setup though since the water injection helps out and since you can see egt and check knock you will know if the timing you are running is too high. Plus you want the most timing pulled at the peak torque range for your engine. For a 4th gen maxima the most amount of timing is pulled at about 5500 rpm.

[Dzaster]

That is kinda my whole issue, I can't see what the ECU is doing, nor have I found, yet, any kind of chart detailing ignition on my car's ECU. I'll just keep trying though.

[Dzaster]

Alright, don't laugh people. It was hard to navigate the laptop touch pad, work the camera, talk, and think what I needed to be doing. Ok, laugh.:D

Here is a vid I took of the Airflow adjustment and the voltage changes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIB7NWfrnu8


When I had no negative values in the Airflow Adjustment map and the injector size correction to 185cc before and after(stock), the Airflow Meter Output(MAP sensor) voltage was actual--voltage IN was the same voltage OUT.

I also get some, what is supposed to be light knock, once RPM's get up to like 3500rpm and beyond. I wasn't sure so I tested the Knocklite by letting the car idle and hitting the block(near the senor) with a rachet extension. It worked, it display red for heavy knock. The good thing is I've not seen this red heavy knock yet while boosting.

Here is what I'm gonna try and do. Gonna not use the injector size correction and just add -50 in the airflow map throughout everything not in boost(prolly up to 3000rpm or so) to trim fuel while idle and cruise--since that is what the injector correction function works, except across the board. Then I'm gonna try and make a run in boost and see how it fairs as it enters boost. If anything, it'll be rich in boost, but would be lovely if not. The idea here is that the Airflow voltage, once in boost, should be unaltered until it gets clamped therefore the ECU will see the true load at the given higher RPM, thus it SHOULDN'T try to advance timing so aggressively. Gonna also look to clamp the stock MAP sensor at a little higher voltage than the current 3.6, but that might result in rich AFR since the MAP will be telling the ECU "more fuel".

[S13_JDrIft]

idk if this helps, but i had 270cc to 550cc, and my car was leaning out flat 18.0 and the car die, well i went to the injector map and from 0% to 3% and 0 to 1000rpm(my idle its set to 1000) its at 40.0 and my car idles around 14.0-14.5.

[Mrdb]

Isnt it supposed to make that correction?

If you upgrade injectors the injector sizing box automatically alters teh afm table but does not show values so it appears all as zero's you can then adjust from there...

You can just subtract values without altering the inj/correction and you will get same voltage difference.

You then subtract / add ignition in ign table to correct any changes made made to the ignition by the AFM table.

[sawulkn]

so an indication that the values were "self corrected" is if all the values are "0"....what if the values didnt auto correct? would that mean that my injectors are out of the self correcting parameter? at stock im 240cc and i upgraded to 370cc

[Dzaster]

You can just subtract values without altering the inj/correction and you will get same voltage difference.

If you are talking about airflow in/out voltage differences then that's not true. I tested it. The only way EMB trims fuel is my altering the AFM.


You then subtract / add ignition in ign table to correct any changes made made to the ignition by the AFM table.
Here's the thing about a lower AFM voltage being sent to the ECU, the ECU does not see the true load so it thinks it fine to advance timing.


sawulkn
You have to enter the values in the additional injector correction feature for the auto correction to take place. The Airflow Adjustment Map will always remain zeroed if you never enter anything so that's really no indicator. The way you'd know if auto correction is working is you'd have a closer to stoich idle and cruise than you had when you did not enter the injector change in the injector correction.

[sawulkn]

hmmm, i mustve missed something somewhere...
i started a new map, everything zero'd out...
i entered my stock injector size (240cc)/new injector size (370cc)=0.649 correction factor
i put 360cc cause thats the amount that the emb can correct to which gave me 0.667 cf
lookin at the AFA and the AIM everything is still zero'd...am i on the right track so far?

also i idle at 11-10.9 and if i rev, the rpm will drop to 500 and below and sometimes cut off...my afrs dip to low 10's when it happens

[Dzaster]

I just enter the actual injector size before and after. it'll only correct what it can. The rest you trim with the AAM. Enter like -20 for 500 and 1000rpm columns and watch how your idle AFR changes.

Yes, on the right track.

[zamiex]

hi guys..
i just hooked up my emanage injector harness and try monitoring in the supprt tool data analysis mode.

what i notice when i done 3rd gear pull up the total injector and normal injector shows 100% duty cycle... isn't normal? which from what i've been told injectors can't work 100% duty cycle? pls advice.....

[Dzaster]

100% just means its pertty much open full time--not good. You need to upgrade your injectors.

Start a garage with a list of specs so we can better help. Not even sure what car you have, and I've said this before, I suck at engine codes so if you could list some specs that will allow us to help you better.

[zamiex]

this is my friends engine...

the engine is mitsubishi 4G63 evo 3.
all still using standards parts, evo 16G turbo, injectors 510cc, fuel pump evo 100lph..

im confused why in the data analysis the total injectors shows 100% duty cycle when i do 3rg gear WOT? im not yet adjusting anything at the add injection map...
is it my emb injector hook up incorectly? i just follow the manual which pretty much simple just by tapping into the ecu and ground.. need advice why im maxing out my injectors?

[zamiex]

this is my friends engine...

the engine is mitsubishi 4G63 evo 3.
all still using standards parts, evo 16G turbo, injectors 510cc, fuel pump evo 100lph..

im confused why in the data analysis the total injectors shows 100% duty cycle when i do 3rg gear WOT? im not yet adjusting anything at the add injection map...
is it my emb injector hook up incorectly? i just follow the manual which pretty much simple just by tapping into the ecu and ground.. need advice why im maxing out my injectors?

also is there any effects if i'm wrongly connect the injector harness?

[Dzaster]

Might not even work at all.