Accord2nrz
02-20-2010, 06:41 PM
Here's a brief writeup on how to do a proper bolt extraction. (Apologize for the pics, my camera sucks.) This is for a broken stud in the exhaust side of your cylinder head.
Tools for this repair:
1 Titanium drill bit set
1 "Easy out" bolt extraction set
1 Can lubricant (WD40, etc..)
Pliers/vice grips
Patience
A friend (Optional)
1. (Optional) Remove the cylinder head. My cylinder head is already removed since we've replaced the valve seals. This can be done with the cyldiner head still in the car but it is exponentially more difficult. (Depending on how much room you have in your engine bay to work. Another reason its best to work outside the engine is that if you make a mistake you can take the part to a machine shop to have it removed for a nominal fee.
http://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/head_gasket.jpg
In my case I removed the upper Intake Manifold(IM) to prevent damage to the sensors and Throttle Body (TB). Since my head is removed I am going to stand the whole assemble up on the lower IM. (I'm sure a bench would be better but this is DIYtuning so we made due with what we have).
http://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/head_stand.jpg
As you can see from the picture the number 4 cylinder stud is broken causing a huge exhaust leak on the lower side. One of the other studs actually came out with the nut during Turbo manifold removal which is cool since i'm going to replace it anyways.
2. With a friend helping, (My best friend, my wife) hold the cylinder head steady on its back side and start with your smallest drill bit. I started with 1/16th. (Make sure you're using titanium heat treated bits.) A decent set can be found at your local parts store for around 12-15 beans.
3. (This works best with an oil type lubricant, but this is DIY...I used WD40) Spray a small amount of lubricant over the broken head stud and plant your drill dead center on the bolt. Eye the back of the drill to ensure the little bubble is centered on the crosshairs. This ensures you're good and straight. (being the slightest bit crooken WILL break your stud, bit, or easy out tool and then you'll be stuck going to a machine shop.
4. Drill all the way through the stud, (you will feel it fall through once your through it). If your stud is flush with the cyldiner head, and it shouldn't be, then use your best judgement. Once this is accomplished back the bit out slowly and take a look at your work. You should see a small hole dead center.
NOTE: While you're going through this process check every 20 seconds for smoking and stop if you see it to let the bit cool. If the bit heats up too much it will break. As you step up your bits apply a fresh coating of lubricant to the stud. This will continue to help break up the hold your head has on the stud and keep everything cooled down.
5. When you have your "Easy Out" bit use a hammer to lightly tap it into the hole you've created. This gives a bite onto the "meat" of the broken stud.
http://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/extracting.jpg
NOTE: DO NOT use a drill on the easy out bit. The quick torque of the drill will snap the bit if the stud is siezed up good enough.
6. I used a pair of vice pliers and gave the easy out bit a slow turn and voila the broken stud will begin to back itself out as normal. continue using your pliers or whatever you have on hand to back it out completely and pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Below are a few pics of my broken stud after the extraction.
http://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/done.JPGhttp://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/done3.JPG
Tools for this repair:
1 Titanium drill bit set
1 "Easy out" bolt extraction set
1 Can lubricant (WD40, etc..)
Pliers/vice grips
Patience
A friend (Optional)
1. (Optional) Remove the cylinder head. My cylinder head is already removed since we've replaced the valve seals. This can be done with the cyldiner head still in the car but it is exponentially more difficult. (Depending on how much room you have in your engine bay to work. Another reason its best to work outside the engine is that if you make a mistake you can take the part to a machine shop to have it removed for a nominal fee.
http://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/head_gasket.jpg
In my case I removed the upper Intake Manifold(IM) to prevent damage to the sensors and Throttle Body (TB). Since my head is removed I am going to stand the whole assemble up on the lower IM. (I'm sure a bench would be better but this is DIYtuning so we made due with what we have).
http://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/head_stand.jpg
As you can see from the picture the number 4 cylinder stud is broken causing a huge exhaust leak on the lower side. One of the other studs actually came out with the nut during Turbo manifold removal which is cool since i'm going to replace it anyways.
2. With a friend helping, (My best friend, my wife) hold the cylinder head steady on its back side and start with your smallest drill bit. I started with 1/16th. (Make sure you're using titanium heat treated bits.) A decent set can be found at your local parts store for around 12-15 beans.
3. (This works best with an oil type lubricant, but this is DIY...I used WD40) Spray a small amount of lubricant over the broken head stud and plant your drill dead center on the bolt. Eye the back of the drill to ensure the little bubble is centered on the crosshairs. This ensures you're good and straight. (being the slightest bit crooken WILL break your stud, bit, or easy out tool and then you'll be stuck going to a machine shop.
4. Drill all the way through the stud, (you will feel it fall through once your through it). If your stud is flush with the cyldiner head, and it shouldn't be, then use your best judgement. Once this is accomplished back the bit out slowly and take a look at your work. You should see a small hole dead center.
NOTE: While you're going through this process check every 20 seconds for smoking and stop if you see it to let the bit cool. If the bit heats up too much it will break. As you step up your bits apply a fresh coating of lubricant to the stud. This will continue to help break up the hold your head has on the stud and keep everything cooled down.
5. When you have your "Easy Out" bit use a hammer to lightly tap it into the hole you've created. This gives a bite onto the "meat" of the broken stud.
http://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/extracting.jpg
NOTE: DO NOT use a drill on the easy out bit. The quick torque of the drill will snap the bit if the stud is siezed up good enough.
6. I used a pair of vice pliers and gave the easy out bit a slow turn and voila the broken stud will begin to back itself out as normal. continue using your pliers or whatever you have on hand to back it out completely and pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Below are a few pics of my broken stud after the extraction.
http://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/done.JPGhttp://www.diytuning.com/walkthroughs/done3.JPG