EMB Tuning - Beginner

[Wrath]

Hi everyone,

I just got a Emanage Blue and the support cable and laptop and I am ready to tune my car for the first time myself. I got the ignition harness installed also.

I am driving a 1L automatic car with a 3 cylinder Daihatsu engine, no turbo. I got some mods for my exhaust and extractor. No injectors, fuel pumps, etc mods to the engine, it's essentially stock. Did not install any 3th party O2 sensor, using the "SD_PR2 - Main Unit Setting".

But I dunno where to start.

So I got the sw started up. I have set the "Throttle Setting". After reading some threads here in this forum, I roughly figure out I need to make adjustments to the Airflow and Ignition Timing maps. I got them opened up, they are all zero.

Can someone teach me the first few steps? I think I need to run my car, turn on the Map Tracing feature, see which yellow box is highlighted and make adjustments to those boxes.

But how do I know which figures to put inside? Is there a guideline or figure that I need to work towards?

[maxgtr2000]

You need a wideband to tune yourself. You can do a few wot runs and see where your afrs are at and richen or lean out certain areas. With no turbo/boost, there won't be really anything to do in the ignition timing area since the ignition map is for retarding the timing. If you are staying n/a I suggest purchasing the injector harness or if you have left over wires from the ignition harness, make your own inj. hrn.

[Wrath]

You need a wideband to tune yourself. You can do a few wot runs and see where your afrs are at and richen or lean out certain areas. With no turbo/boost, there won't be really anything to do in the ignition timing area since the ignition map is for retarding the timing. If you are staying n/a I suggest purchasing the injector harness or if you have left over wires from the ignition harness, make your own inj. hrn.

Yes, i keep reading about a wideband O2 sensor but I am wondering if I can do my own on-the-road tuning without that. BTW what is a "wot" run?

I have attached my vechicle's Airflow Adjustment Map by a tuner, I hope someone can explain to me.

In the highlighted area, column 5500rpm row 20% there is a figure of -3, what does it mean? Does it mean at 5500rpm the throttle is suppose to be opened at 20% but because there is a "-3" there, it becomes 17% opened only?

And how did the tuner come up with "-3", why not -9, 0 or +3? Can someone pls explain to me how is the figure derived?

[Turbineguy]

Yes, i keep reading about a wideband O2 sensor but I am wondering if I can do my own on-the-road tuning without that. BTW what is a "wot" run?

I have attached my vechicle's Airflow Adjustment Map by a tuner, I hope someone can explain to me.

In the highlighted area, column 5500rpm row 20% there is a figure of -3, what does it mean? Does it mean at 5500rpm the throttle is suppose to be opened at 20% but because there is a "-3" there, it becomes 17% opened only?

And how did the tuner come up with "-3", why not -9, 0 or +3? Can someone pls explain to me how is the figure derived?

The stock narrow band is not accurate enough to tune with. The further away from stoiciometric they get the more they vary from actual AFR. They have very good resolution in a fairly narrow band hence their name. A wide band uses a different type of sensor and a dedicated controller to accurately read AFR in a much wider range. The first tool and IMHO a required one to do your own tuning is a wide band. After that look at an EGT gauge. You should also consider an oil pressure gauge as well since when looking for more power there is always more stress put on the engine internals and oil pressure is one of the first indicators of an issue alot of times.

WOT means wide open throttle.

[Dzaster]

The -3 and all the other values in the field area of the map is relative to fuel adjustment--meaning 3% of your stock ecu fueling is being removed and it looks like they are leaning you out to achieve more power. They should also look to advancing timing as well.

[Wrath]

I'm starting to pick up a lot from the replies of this thread.

So my understanding of the values in the Airflow Adjustment Map is correct, it's the percentage of fuel difference with respect to stoiciometric, which is 14.7:1 air:fuel ratio. So a negative % will mean less fuel. Ok, I understand this part well enough.

But how did the tuner come up with the values to put in the AAM? He must be relying on a certain readout to make the adjustment against right? I suspect it works this way (correct me if I am wrong), he holds my car's at 5500rpm, looks at the dynometer's screen for the exhaust gas readings, adjust the value to put into the AAM, then looks at the dynometer's screen to check the readings again. He does this until he achieve a certain value that he is aiming for, correct?

Ok my question is, I'm gonna do on-the-road tuning, that means I have no dynometer. Can i look at the Support Tool's screen and derive some kind of value I can make adjustment to the AAM if I do not have a wideband O2 sensor installed yet? Does my car tell me the current air-fuel ratio at a certain rpm and reports that to the emanage support tool software I can monitor on my laptop?

BTW does the tuner tries to adjust the fuel:air ratio and achieve stoiciometric across the all the rpm? Or is there a certain guideline ratio that varies with each different rpm to achieve maximum tuning results?

Sorry to appear as such a noob, but, I guess I am really new to this.

[Dzaster]

You really shouldn't even try to self-tune without at least a wideband O2 kit. Its just not worth the attempt unless you enjoy rebuilding your motor.

He must have had an WBO2 hooked up in order to adjust fuel in that way. It would be sketchy to try and pull fuel based on EGT's alone. He does not try to maintain stoich. He most likely is looking to lean out the mixture as that produces a hair more power, but that is why I though he should also be looking to play with ignition timing map to advance timing as that is where power will come from as well.

[Wrath]

You really shouldn't even try to self-tune without at least a wideband O2 kit. Its just not worth the attempt unless you enjoy rebuilding your motor.

He must have had an WBO2 hooked up in order to adjust fuel in that way. It would be sketchy to try and pull fuel based on EGT's alone. He does not try to maintain stoich. He most likely is looking to lean out the mixture as that produces a hair more power, but that is why I though he should also be looking to play with ignition timing map to advance timing as that is where power will come from as well.

As you guys can tell, most of my Airflow Adjustment Map is on the high rpm side, above 4500rpm, which is hardly useful in normal driving as the most of the time I'm 100km/h holding around 3000rpm.

BUT he did magic to the Ignition Timing Map and if you guys see the attachment, it looks like quite small adjustments, but it is working wonders in my everyday driving.

The EMB is unable to monitor Airflow Ratio by itself using the car's built in narrowband O2 sensor?

[Dzaster]

Okay, that makes way more sense.

And no, no AFR without wideband.

[Wrath]

Okay, that makes way more sense.

And no, no AFR without wideband.

Ok, understood. So no matter how I will need a wideband O2 sensor to do on-the-road tuning by myself.

But is it possible for me to adjust the Ignition Timing Map on-the-road myself? If so, how do I start?

[Dzaster]

Yeah, you SHOULD have a WBO2 to tune. You can also read plugs, but I'm not gonna advise you do that strictly as you might toast your motor before you get to even pull over and read your lean condition--should you be running a lean condition.

Tuning timing is even harder than tuning AFR. This is where dyno's are most valuable--when tuning for advanced timing.

You don't wanna just advance until you here pinging. Things could be too late by the time you make the correction.

Bottom line, if you gonna try and tune yourself, get some of the essential tunes, WBO2, EGT, knock detection system.

BTW, this is all purely just IN MY OPINION.:D

[schlo_50]

Sorry to intrude on your thread but can you simply replace a stock narrowband sensor for a wideband bosch one or do you need an actual kit?

Bosch Wideband o2 sensor alone = £60
UEGO Wideband o2 kit = £150

What's the difference?

[Accord2nrz]

Sorry to intrude on your thread but can you simply replace a stock narrowband sensor for a wideband bosch one or do you need an actual kit?

Bosch Wideband o2 sensor alone = £60
UEGO Wideband o2 kit = £150

What's the difference?

You need an actual kit. the reason is becuase your ECU is actually unable to read a widerband. Sure the o2 sensor will pick up on it but the voltage correlations will be different when processed by your ecu. PLX Devices makes a great kit that is inexpensive and with the kit you can actually replace your factory o2 sensor with the wideband setup and then the brain of that goes into your ecu to tell it what the narrowband values are. Hope this helps, be sure to post an intro!

[Accord2nrz]

Yeah, you SHOULD have a WBO2 to tune. You can also read plugs, but I'm not gonna advise you do that strictly as you might toast your motor before you get to even pull over and read your lean condition--should you be running a lean condition.

Tuning timing is even harder than tuning AFR. This is where dyno's are most valuable--when tuning for advanced timing.

You don't wanna just advance until you here pinging. Things could be too late by the time you make the correction.

Bottom line, if you gonna try and tune yourself, get some of the essential tunes, WBO2, EGT, knock detection system.

BTW, this is all purely just IN MY OPINION.:D


+1 But I'm gonna say this is not opinion but fact. DO NOT tune based on knocking. Take your time and use a wideband kit, otherwise you're looking at doing serious damage to more components than you realize. The smaller components such as valvetrain, transmission, and even cooling systems all depend on that balance. Detonation and improper tuning will cause some craziness to happen. Not to mention what damage the increased heat can do. If you can't get ahold of a dyno then tune using WBO2, EGT, and Knock sensor just as Turbineguy and Dzaster have stated.

If you're insisting on advancing your timing the acceptable safety margin for the emb is 1 or 2 degrees per pound of boost your adding to the motor. Hope this helps.