E-Manage Blue erratic RPM readings

[mazpr]

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/misc/DataRPM.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/misc/DataAnalysis.jpg

This was posted in Miataturbo to see if I had any luck, the most info I got was go MS, which I know that is another can of worms as I have seen again and again in many forums. Its ridiculous the amount of troubleshooting, problems I have seen with MS.

Regardless, this section is for the Blue so here it goes.

First off, this is my first post and I am very glad I found this website as I WILL be checking it frequently.

Back to the subject, the most I have found to fix such problem is by upgrading the ignition system with MSD 6L box, coil and adaptor and supposedly it worked, but that was on a Nissan forum.

I did double check everything, yes I did, the jumpers inside the Blue box, correct/proper ground and wiring, correct rpm source (I even verified with an Autometer tach).

On the box, made sure all settings zeroed out (just in case), proper sensor designation (flap), number of cylinders and ignition system (distributor in this case).

On mine its 2-A-A because I have a RX-7 flap sensor, the 2 is for the distributor type. The E-Manage has all corresponding updates, so now it is a Gold version.

To finally check there was nothing wrong with the car itself, an APEXi S-AFC was installed afterwards using the same exact wires and it worked without a glitch.

When the E-manage was hooked up to the car it would accelerate stumbling as when the engine has too much fuel and then it would clean up. The problem is the incorrect rpm readings, it is useless to make any settings as they will always be off, one minute it reads 3,000 then 20,000?!?, I have searched on the web and so far have not received anyone else with exact same problems. It could be after all the piggy back is defective, right now it is out of warranty and have no other piggy back e-manage to compare with.

Any help, suggestions are welcomed...

[mazpr]

I noticed the erratic rpms is noticeable when the car warms up, but if it is very cold outside the rpms are very stable and stays true to the correct rpm.

I am thinking there must be another cable somewhere that is too close to the engine block and when it is very hot leaking a signal be it from the injector, distributor or maybe ignition coil or spark plug wires in itself.

The E-Manage was uninstalled and a Apexi S-AFC was installed instead, same similar symptoms but much less noticeable. It is amazing how precise the E-manage is compared to the Apexi, by making this swap I have proven the Blue is not bad after all, but it is something with the car itself.

So very strange, never noticed anything with the Autometer tach or on-board cluster tach, both shows precise readings, but then again the piggy backs do read the erratic signal. Pretty sure there is signal bleeding from another cable and must be close to the engine bay. I thought it was because here in Florida was very hot and the piggy back did not like the temps inside the vehicle after a whole day under the sun. Car has been parked under a tree shadow, using a windshield reflector, sometimes leaving the windows a little rolled down to dissipate the heat, and still get the glitch so it is nothing with the temps inside the vehicle cabin.

I got some thermo tech left over so will cover wires here and there to see if a solution can be discovered. It must be discovered one way or the other as this problem will not let me use any kind of engine management and besides the Blue is such a cool piggy back to work with.

[Dzaster]

I had an issue with "stepping" type acceleration and building of boost. it never did it until I hooked up a TurboXS knocklite--and this part uses and RPM/ignition signal. Once I unistalled it, the car ran fine again. It was either that it was perhaps weakening the signal or just disrupting it altogether. I have since found another RPM signal source for the Knocklite instead of at the ECU. It's since been good.

So, the Emanage definitely picks up on some things. Also if you have other RPM/ignition type signal wires for different things like a tach, you might consider running shielded wires.