7AFE Tunning

[radsan]

After I'm able to read my map,its time to fine tune :D

I got knocking problem on WOT, which I think its because timing is to advance but after i alter the timing on WOT it still have some knocking sound but randomly and the way my car accelerate pass 3500 is significantly slow 3rd gear very slow to reach 6000rpm, my red line is 6500rpm

here's my MAP

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/8811/firstol.jpg (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/firstol.jpg/)

Please advise

[Dzaster]

You may want to start a Garage entry as its easier to help by just checking your info. Its naturally aspirated at the moment right?

Do you hear the knock or you have some device that detects, or a data-logger of some sort?

And that is your maps before you edited them?

I'm not to certain about NA tuning, but if you did have knock it wouldn't surprise as there seems to be quite a bit of timing advancement at those RPM's--at least that would be huge advance on a boosted motor.

[radsan]

yes atm still NA, I only hear a knocking sound because before I install EMB no knocking.

no its the map after I edit, notice on ignition map scale 4.80-5.00 I make it all zero.

I might just retard the timing one at the time then...but how about the fuel map?on 3500rpm the additional fuel that needed compare to 3000rpm is so much, what do you think that causing that?

[radsan]

Finally I get my Turbo installed & my WB :D

the only problem is I cannot boost, when its at "0" the engine want to stall and the engine check light is on. and the WB reading is lean 14-16

I must be missing something,I attaached my MAP.

it feel like a fuel cut?but how to remove it? I have Greedy pressure sensor installed

[radsan]

I also tried to unplug the stock MAP sensor,it run very rich on idle but still cannot boost.

Then I tried disconnect the hose to stock MAP sensor, it also cannot boost.

Please advise

[radsan]

hoho to exited I forgot to set the boos cut setting, now already boost 8psi but still need to change to a bigger injector. on boost i only able to get 12 :(

[Accord2nrz]

How are your AFR's looking?

[radsan]

at WOT I only manage to get 13-14, I'm still using stock injector but my FPR & my fuel pump change already. setting on EMB already maxed.

I still have a 440cc injoctor waiting to install, but still looking for new seal.

[Dzaster]

YOu can get new injector seals and o-rings from nearly any decent automotive parts store.


Is your FPR adjustable? You can try turning up the FPR but that should only be a temp solution.

I just checked your map. Do you not have the injector harness? If not, you'll want that for better tuning fuel. Messing with the ariflow map also messes with your ignition timing and is not the ideal tuning method. If you do have injector harness then you need to enable the additonal injector map and add fuel there. Use airflow adjustment map mainly to remove fuel if need be.

[radsan]

YOu can get new injector seals and o-rings from nearly any decent automotive parts store.


Is your FPR adjustable? You can try turning up the FPR but that should only be a temp solution.

I just checked your map. Do you not have the injector harness? If not, you'll want that for better tuning fuel. Messing with the ariflow map also messes with your ignition timing and is not the ideal tuning method. If you do have injector harness then you need to enable the additonal injector map and add fuel there. Use airflow adjustment map mainly to remove fuel if need be.

almost give up I cant find new seal for the injector...maybe I'll just use the existing and see how it goes.

yes my FPR is adjustable,but I dont have the fuel pressure gauge so I dont know now Im running how many PSI? any one know how to set without gauge?

Yes I have injector harness installed also, but if I enable the additional injector map & I add fuel from there will it be better? I dont understand the difference between "airflow adjustment map" & "additional injector map"

I thought additional injector map is use if we add extra injector? then we adjust the fuel from there? will it control the existing injector ?

[Dzaster]

Nah man, auto part stores carry them like mad man. Surely you can get some.

As for FPR, I wouldn't mess much with it if no gauge.

And, yes you wanna use the Additional Injection Map for adding fuel. The difference is the Airflow Adjustent Map alters MAP sensor signal to ECU to adjust for fuel. That also leads to changes in igintion timing. The Additional Injection Map just shortens pulswidth of injector signal so no ignition timing altering.

You use Airflow Adjustment to remove fuel, and Additional Injection to add.

For extra injectors you use the Sub-Injector Map.

[radsan]

So finally I get new seal for the injector, my stock injector is 180cc and now im using 440cc injector. added a 10ohm 10W resistor to the injector.adjust the injector change 200 to 300.

start it and suprisingly it alive but very rich about 10 AFR.adjust here and there now idle i set to 16 the reason I set so lean is because the exhaust temp on idle can get very low about 220'C its good for my A/C while if i run 14 is around 350'C. cruzing is around 13-14.5

the problem running very lean on idle is some time hard to start i have to press the accelerator about 1/4 for easy start.

but cannot tune on WOT because my clutch are slipping like mad, from 3000 already slipping. its a 2yr old clutch and about 50.000 km. Im only bosting 0.5bar now. do you guys think a new stock clutch can handle it?or I should go for a better one?

I attached my setting if any one want to check it out

[Accord2nrz]

Go for a better one. Remember you are losing 20% of your power between the crank and the wheels. So if you're making say 263 to the wheels then you are way over 300 at the crank.

Look for a stage 2+ clutch. This will still keep you at the street feel but should have enough grip to handle you up to alittle over 300whp.

[radsan]

I might go for a exedy 3 puck clutch because thats the only brand available for my car here, but not really sure how hard will it be during shifting...

[maxgtr2000]

The ignition map can only pull timing irc because we don't have a crank sensor hooked up so i don't think positive values are doing anything at all on that map. Secondly I learned (also my car has a 6500 redline) that it doesn't make sense to have the map scaling go all the way to 8000rpm so I put my final value at 7000 in the change scale and then highlighted the whole top line and hit the "interpolate" button, this spread out the rpms a little bit more evenly. Your highest pulled timing should be at peak torque, you have it at redline. You will have to retune eveything once you change the numbers but once I learned and changed all this my car ran waaay better. The additional injection map is for if you have the greddy injection harness hooked up to the injectors, this allows you to add pulsewidth, or duty cycle, to your injectors. On your airflow map you posted you should just zero everything out after 5000rpm. Though your changes aren't very big on that map you want your timing to be consistent especially in that rpm range, subtracting fuel advances timing with emanage blue so if you need to pull fuel you would have to consider how much timing advance subtracting fuel will do, it can cause pinging. If you are using high octance fuel and are still pinging under boost, your timing is too high. Ultimately a dyno and a professional tuner is the best bet.
If are having a problem at idle see if adding a little bit of fuel will help.