EMB Rotary switches and Jumpers

[jeffmat]

Hi there, does anyone here have the interpretations of the rotary switches and jumpers for the EMB? I've searched the web and saw the interpretation

First digit - Ignition signal type
1 - 1 coil (distributor) 3 cyl
2 - 1 coil (distributor) 4 cyl
3 - 2 coil (wasted spark) 4 cyl
4 - 4 coil (coil on plug) 4 cyl
5 - 1 coil (distributor) 6 cyl
6 - 3 coil (wasted spark) 6 cyl
7 - 6 coil (coil on plug) 6 cyl
8 - 8 coil (coil on plug) 8 cyl
A - RX-7 13B-REW
B - RX-7 13B or 13BT
C - RX-7 20B-REW


But how about the 2nd and 3rd switch?

Also the manual did not gave which jumper is for what feature. So maybe anyone here has a copy, kindly post it here.

:)

[Dzaster]

Why didn't you ask last night when we were chatting? :p That is a nice little list there.

Jumper Identities (http://www.diytuning.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=61)


ID Rotary Switches. Part 1, page 14 of the EMB electronic manual in our Downloads section HERE (http://www.diytuning.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=33).
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/rotaryswitchid.png



Is that the stuff? BTW, those are from our downloads section obviously. heh.

[jeffmat]

Hey, thanks for the jumper Identities. I forgot to ask you about that.:D

Also found out the the 1st rotary switch for me was "4".

Is there a copy of the rotary switch identities?

[Dzaster]

Huh? The rotary switch identities is that image above.

[jeffmat]

Oh, what I meant was for the every switch, what does each click mean. Like the first digit:

First digit - Ignition signal type
1 - 1 coil (distributor) 3 cyl
2 - 1 coil (distributor) 4 cyl
3 - 2 coil (wasted spark) 4 cyl
4 - 4 coil (coil on plug) 4 cyl
5 - 1 coil (distributor) 6 cyl
6 - 3 coil (wasted spark) 6 cyl
7 - 6 coil (coil on plug) 6 cyl
8 - 8 coil (coil on plug) 8 cyl
A - RX-7 13B-REW
B - RX-7 13B or 13BT
C - RX-7 20B-REW

Second digit - Airflow type selector
1 - ?
2 - ?
3 - ?
.
.
.
.
..
Third digit - Airflow type selector
1 - ?
2 - ?
3 - ?
.
.
.
.
..
Fourth digit - VPV
1 - ?
2 - ?
3 - ?
.
.
.
.
..
Fifth digit - VAAV
1 - ?
2 - ?
3 - ?
.
.
.
.
..

[iimagiin]

<---dummy smack for not fully reading posts

seems you've found about as much as me as well.

[MogiePete]

Here's a list of all the rotary switch settings compiled from the Japanese and US manuals. There are 3 rotary switches hidden under the faceplate of the unit that you dial to set up the type of car. It uses this information to figure out how to interpret the airflow meter signal and the ignition signal for that car.

First digit - Ignition signal typeSets the expected input for the RPM signal. Also sets up how the ignition signal setting will work.

1 - 1 coil (distributor) 3 cyl
2 - 1 coil (distributor) 4 cyl
3 - 2 coil (wasted spark) 4 cyl
4 - 4 coil (coil on plug) 4 cyl
5 - 1 coil (distributor) 6 cyl
(only seems to be on the Toyota 1G-GTE inline 6)
6 - 3 coil (wasted spark) 6 cyl
7 - 6 coil (coil on plug) 6 cyl
8 - 8 coil (coil on plug) 8 cyl
A - RX-7 13B-REW
B - RX-7 13B or 13BT
C - RX-7 20B-REW

Examples:

1. If you set 2 on a engine with 2 coils, only one ignition will get spark because #2 thinks you have only one coil.

2. Say you have the listed engine 4AGE/MAP/Disty which uses settings 2-4-0 and you have a 4AGZE/MAP/Disty, you can try settings 3-4-0. If the setup doesn't recognize an engine designation that means it won't work. If it detects the same 4AGE but stumbles, it means that it is calculating the spark timing wrongly based on one coil and is out of phase. This will cause extra retarded timing and possibly backfire. You got to find an alternative rotary switch setting from another engine - in this case the Daihatsu L502 which will work, RSS 3-C-2. It runs 2 coil and MAP sensor.

3. The E-manage is not universal. You cannot create your own rotary switch combination. It is factory preset with a range of cars.

Second and Third digit - airflow meter type. Notice there are a LOT of potential settings that aren't listed - hmm.... The first 2 numbers are the rotary switch settings, and the second is the airflow type designation. For example, NS_HW-1 is Nissan Hotwire Type 1. These codes are pulled straight from the E-manage manual.

NOTE: Some of these are undocumented settings that may only apply to the latest (v.1.36) of the firmware. They are there and work, but some of the applications are unknown.

Nissan Hotwire
00 NS_HW-1
01 NS_HW-2
02 NS_HW-3
03 NS_HW-4
04 NS_HW-5
05 NS_HW-6
06 NS_HW-7
07 NS_HW-8
08 NS_HW-9
09 NS_HW-10
0A NS_HW-11

Toyota Hotwire
20 TY_HW-1 (undocumented)
21 TY_HW-2
22 TY_HW-3
23 TY_HW-4
24 TY_HW-5
25 TY_HW-6

Toyota Pressure
40 TY_PR-1
41 TY_PR-2
42 TY_PR-3

Toyota Flap
47 TY_FL-1
48 TY_FL-2
49 TY_FL-3
4A TY_FL-4

Subaru Hotwire
60 SB_HW-1
61 SB-HW-2
62 SB-HW-3
63 SB-HW-4

Mitsubishi Karmann
83 MT_KR-1
84 MT_KR-2

Honda Pressure
8A HN_PR-1
8B HN_PR-2
8C - new settings for Honda S2000
8D HN_PR-4 Undocumented for RSX
8E Undocumented working setting

Mazda Hotwire
A0 MZ_HW-1
A1 MZ_HW-2

Mazda Pressure
A6 MZ_PR-1

Mazda Flap
A9 MZ-FL-1 Undocumented
AA MZ_FL-2
AB MZ_FL-3
AC MZ_FL-4
AD MZ_FL-5

Suzuki/Daihatsu Pressure
C0 SD_PR-1
C1 SD_PR-2
C2 SD_PR-3

There are a number of jumpers inside the E-manage, most of which are obvious to set if you have an application listed in the manual. Here's a breakdown of the jumpers and what their purpose is.

Jumper settings inside the E-manage:

JP1 Ignition input pullup/pulldown select
1-2 A resistor is pulled down to ground
2-3 A resistor is pulled up the +ve rail
* Use 1-2 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to ground
* Use 2-3 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to +ve (5V or 12V will determine JP2's setting)
Supposedly you can see the input voltage in the Main Unit Setting Information window. If it's 0v, use 1-2. If it's 5v or more, use 2-3.

JP2 Ignition output select
1-2 Output resistor connected to +5V
2-3 Output resistor connected to +12V
* This will depend on the ECU ignitor signals output
* JP2 enables the e-manage to duplicate the amplitude of the original signal

JP3 airflow/VTEC output select
1-2 2nd airflow meter
2-3 VTEC
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 1-2 for non-VTEC applications

JP4 airflow/VTEC input select
1-2 VTEC
2-3 2nd airflow meter
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 2-3 for non-VTEC applications
* On 1-2, enables pulldown resistor (for use as VTM signal). This is required because the VTM output is inverted with the VTEC out.

JP5/JP6 Sub injector drivers
Jumper off - Disabled
1-2 - Enabled
* Only enable if you're going to control extra injectors with the E-manage

JP7 VTEC
1-2 Non-VTEC
Jumper off - VTEC
* On 1-2, enables pullup resistor (for use as MAF output)

[Dzaster]

Sticky material? Lol

Nice compilation!

[arkangel]

Guys,

I am new to the forum, I recently bought an EMB and I am connecting it to my 98 mitsubishi Mirage 4G93

I have found that my jumper settings are ok, and that my dials are adjusted properly (My ECU and engine is identical to the 4G63, it also has a dual-coil pack)

I believe my error is in the MAF cables, I used cable green from EMB to intercept the MAF signal and the white to return it from the EMB to the ECU.

When I turn on my car, it won't idle unless I gas it a bit, and after 15 seconds, CEL comes up, P0100 Airflow Meter circuit error, so the MAF is NOT being detected, should I be using the karmann-vortex wires from the EMB?

Thanks for any responses, opinions, ideas!

[Accord2nrz]

Not necessarily. The circuit could actually be malfunction. Are you able to take a voltage reading off your MAF to see if it's even putting out a signal?

[charger360]

Here's a list of all the rotary switch settings compiled from the Japanese and US manuals. There are 3 rotary switches hidden under the faceplate of the unit that you dial to set up the type of car. It uses this information to figure out how to interpret the airflow meter signal and the ignition signal for that car.

First digit - Ignition signal typeSets the expected input for the RPM signal. Also sets up how the ignition signal setting will work.

1 - 1 coil (distributor) 3 cyl
2 - 1 coil (distributor) 4 cyl
3 - 2 coil (wasted spark) 4 cyl
4 - 4 coil (coil on plug) 4 cyl
5 - 1 coil (distributor) 6 cyl
(only seems to be on the Toyota 1G-GTE inline 6)
6 - 3 coil (wasted spark) 6 cyl
7 - 6 coil (coil on plug) 6 cyl
8 - 8 coil (coil on plug) 8 cyl
A - RX-7 13B-REW
B - RX-7 13B or 13BT
C - RX-7 20B-REW

Examples:

1. If you set 2 on a engine with 2 coils, only one ignition will get spark because #2 thinks you have only one coil.

2. Say you have the listed engine 4AGE/MAP/Disty which uses settings 2-4-0 and you have a 4AGZE/MAP/Disty, you can try settings 3-4-0. If the setup doesn't recognize an engine designation that means it won't work. If it detects the same 4AGE but stumbles, it means that it is calculating the spark timing wrongly based on one coil and is out of phase. This will cause extra retarded timing and possibly backfire. You got to find an alternative rotary switch setting from another engine - in this case the Daihatsu L502 which will work, RSS 3-C-2. It runs 2 coil and MAP sensor.

3. The E-manage is not universal. You cannot create your own rotary switch combination. It is factory preset with a range of cars.

Second and Third digit - airflow meter type. Notice there are a LOT of potential settings that aren't listed - hmm.... The first 2 numbers are the rotary switch settings, and the second is the airflow type designation. For example, NS_HW-1 is Nissan Hotwire Type 1. These codes are pulled straight from the E-manage manual.

NOTE: Some of these are undocumented settings that may only apply to the latest (v.1.36) of the firmware. They are there and work, but some of the applications are unknown.

Nissan Hotwire
00 NS_HW-1
01 NS_HW-2
02 NS_HW-3
03 NS_HW-4
04 NS_HW-5
05 NS_HW-6
06 NS_HW-7
07 NS_HW-8
08 NS_HW-9
09 NS_HW-10
0A NS_HW-11

Toyota Hotwire
20 TY_HW-1 (undocumented)
21 TY_HW-2
22 TY_HW-3
23 TY_HW-4
24 TY_HW-5
25 TY_HW-6

Toyota Pressure
40 TY_PR-1
41 TY_PR-2
42 TY_PR-3

Toyota Flap
47 TY_FL-1
48 TY_FL-2
49 TY_FL-3
4A TY_FL-4

Subaru Hotwire
60 SB_HW-1
61 SB-HW-2
62 SB-HW-3
63 SB-HW-4

Mitsubishi Karmann
83 MT_KR-1
84 MT_KR-2

Honda Pressure
8A HN_PR-1
8B HN_PR-2
8C - new settings for Honda S2000
8D HN_PR-4 Undocumented for RSX
8E Undocumented working setting

Mazda Hotwire
A0 MZ_HW-1
A1 MZ_HW-2

Mazda Pressure
A6 MZ_PR-1

Mazda Flap
A9 MZ-FL-1 Undocumented
AA MZ_FL-2
AB MZ_FL-3
AC MZ_FL-4
AD MZ_FL-5

Suzuki/Daihatsu Pressure
C0 SD_PR-1
C1 SD_PR-2
C2 SD_PR-3

There are a number of jumpers inside the E-manage, most of which are obvious to set if you have an application listed in the manual. Here's a breakdown of the jumpers and what their purpose is.

Jumper settings inside the E-manage:

JP1 Ignition input pullup/pulldown select
1-2 A resistor is pulled down to ground
2-3 A resistor is pulled up the +ve rail
* Use 1-2 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to ground
* Use 2-3 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to +ve (5V or 12V will determine JP2's setting)
Supposedly you can see the input voltage in the Main Unit Setting Information window. If it's 0v, use 1-2. If it's 5v or more, use 2-3.

JP2 Ignition output select
1-2 Output resistor connected to +5V
2-3 Output resistor connected to +12V
* This will depend on the ECU ignitor signals output
* JP2 enables the e-manage to duplicate the amplitude of the original signal

JP3 airflow/VTEC output select
1-2 2nd airflow meter
2-3 VTEC
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 1-2 for non-VTEC applications

JP4 airflow/VTEC input select
1-2 VTEC
2-3 2nd airflow meter
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 2-3 for non-VTEC applications
* On 1-2, enables pulldown resistor (for use as VTM signal). This is required because the VTM output is inverted with the VTEC out.

JP5/JP6 Sub injector drivers
Jumper off - Disabled
1-2 - Enabled
* Only enable if you're going to control extra injectors with the E-manage

JP7 VTEC
1-2 Non-VTEC
Jumper off - VTEC
* On 1-2, enables pullup resistor (for use as MAF output)
Hi all,

I've just joined sorry to butt in.

I have a Toyota Landcruiser series 80, 1996 model, FZ FE distributor motor, dual fuel petrol/lpg. Fantastic vehicle, Toyota can be very proud.

Been doing a lot of modifications to the cruiser, suspension raised, shocks, springs, air bags rear, compressor onboard, dual battery, 12000lb winch, 3 inch exhaust, emange blue and am preparing to install a turbocharger.

All was ok for two months, connected the laptop to the emange blue, played a little with the settings but returned everything to default.

However just before heading to the snow last week, the cruiser started running rich during warm up on petrol (ran ok on lpg), not idling you get the picture. The emange blue which have had installed for about two months showed trouble, the green light turned red (not flashing), and the usb connection turned off, with the engine warning light on, fault codes 14, 31.

Anyway, since installed the emanage blue the cruiser was running better than ever on both lpg and petrol for the two months (and was happy), but ended going to the snow with my wifes Lancer, bitterly disapointed (not to mention, yak, yak, yak), that the emange faulted.

Returning from the snow yesterday pulled out the emange, bypassed ignition and map sensor and no problem the crusier ran well on petrol and lpg again.

On closer examination of the emange circuit board noticed evidence of overheating and solder splatter (next to the usb socket.) Now considering that when I've installed the emange blue no problems were observed, no thanks to Greedy, whom did not even bother to reply to my many emails but thanks to blogers and Landcruiser electrical wiring manual, manage to deduce the hard wiring into the ecu harness.

The Egreedy manual was pretty useless for the Landcruiser, especially with the rotary switch settings, which I've uncertainly set to 5, 4, 0 and the jumpers are default.

Now to my question, does anyone know if these settings are correct, and could these settings have caused the overheating???? or have I missed something? does jumper 2 has to be changed to 2-3 from 1-2 for Toyota?

As I stand at the moment, will try and repair the solder splatter bridging and see if I can get the emange blue to work again, before starting with the turbo install.

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help .