Installed eManage Blue/Gold...time to learn tuning

[shootz]

(4/10/09)
This is being copied from Mazdas 24/7 where I posted yesterday... I thought you might be able to help a bit more ;)

I bought the eManage Blue (EMB) a month or two ago in preparation of boosting my 99' Mazda Protege 1.6L. For now I'm N/A

The EMB setup I have installed at the moment is:
EMB Unit
Main Harness
Injector Harness
Ignition Harness
Greddy Pressure Sensor

Guages on hand waiting to be installed:
A/F WB02 w/ Innovate LC-1 WB controller
Oil Pressure
Oil Temp
Water Temp
ETG
Boost

I am still waiting on/looking for a manifold, downpipe, and intercooler piping, so in the mean time I thought I'd familiarize myself with the EMB interface and tuning. Today is the first day I felt okay about driving my car around . Initially I wired the MAF incorrectly the first time and the car did not run correctly. After installing a new Celica MAF (thread (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123681962)) and removing the 1k resistor that most 2.0L protege guys run (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123629902&highlight=emanage) I am able to drive again.

I upgraded my support tool/hardware to version 1.49 after doing a Blue - Gold upgrade. So, I have the latest software/hardware w/ GOLD version upgrade. If anyone is interested about this upgrade, I would be glad to talk/e-mail about it. It was painless, except for when I tried to go from factory original CD version (1.11 I think) to 1.49 and I had to do a reinstall of the software.

The main problem I am having right now is one w/ the EMB. My incoming MAF voltage is fine, but any time it dips below 1.47 volts the EMB outputs .08 volts... highly annoying :confused:. I am not sure how to proceed from here. My concern is that I do not have the correct rotary switch setting right now. Presently they are set to 3-A-1. I tried 3-A-0 & 3-A-2 w/o any success. Neither one allowed the engine to even start. I just imagine that the main problem is that the EMB thinks my MAF is something different. I was jsut reading the old FAQ for the eManage (http://drizze99.conforums3.com/index.cgi?board=emangeneral&action=display&num=1108222412) and it was talking about how you can switch MAF's (virtually) and use different codes... if my EMB is not messed up, then maybe that'll help.

There is an anti-stall feature that I've thought of using, but I am not sure that I want to "clamp" my low MAF voltage. I could also add fuel on the Airflow Adjustment Map across the areas that need more due to getting a low MAF signal. The EMB adds fuel here by upping the reported MAF voltage. I might be able fix the problem that way. One other idea I have is to add a 1k resistor to the output MAF voltage line from the EMB connected to a ground. Maybe the EMB just needs some "help" getting the signal out.

Still, I'd like to know if I have the correct MAF selected in the EMB hardware/software.


I'd be glad to know there is anyone else on the forums still using eManage. Drop a not and let me know if you are using EMB too. I'll keep posting what's happening on my end.



Today (4/11/09) I installed a Cosmo SRI. It was supposted to work well w/ my Celica MAF, but w/ the eManage on the fritz, my engine no likely....:mad: It looked pretty, but I couldn't get past 4k rpms. She was buckin' like a son of a gun. So, out w/ the new, in with the old... way better.

On a positive note, I received and installed a stock knock sensor (I guess the 1.6L didn't need one ). A Turbo XS Knocklite (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123727357) will make use of that and offer me a shift light feature as well. Next, I wired and installed the Greddy MAP sensor. After that I though I might as well be ready for the rest of the turbo build and got my coolant probe ready to install. I went to Home Depot and bought the necessary parts to get the probe in the coolant flow per these directions (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122766&highlight=temp).
Following all of this I took out my old piece of trash radio shack fog light switch and wired in the stock one. Oh, it reminds me of my old MSP.

Back to the eManage woes... I found a guy locally that has an eManage box cheap, so I 'm going to buy it and see if all is well with mine... I miss wired the MAF initially and I am concerned that is the cause of my current MAF woes. We shall see. If I can't get the eManage figured out, I'll go w/ a BEGI FMU, Split Second FTC, AEM piggyback, or something else that can up the fuel and take care of my tuning needs. I'll work at it before I decide to go another engine control route, but I really just want the car to run well. I'm interested in your thoughts. Don't be shy. Write more later...

[Accord2nrz]

Welcome tot he site! Good to see you got a knocklite, well to clamp your MAF voltage your going to be looking at the Boost Cut/Limit Map, not the anti-engine stall feature.

I remember reading in the manual once upon a time that you actually have to put in a resistor for some models, but I'm deployed right now so I dont have it. You need to google the emanage manual from back in the day.

The translation is loose so if you can scan me a pic of it i can translate to a degree.

The emanage doesn't need any "help" , you start doing that and your piggybacking a piggypack system doesn't lead to good results.

[94blackmx5]

i know on the 99 miata you need to put a resistor in. check this website out do a good search you might find some usefull info http://www.miataturbo.net/ they have a sub forum just for e manage users

[shootz]

Welcome tot he site! Good to see you got a knocklite, well to clamp your MAF voltage your going to be looking at the Boost Cut/Limit Map, not the anti-engine stall feature.

I remember reading in the manual once upon a time that you actually have to put in a resistor for some models, but I'm deployed right now so I dont have it. You need to google the emanage manual from back in the day.

The translation is loose so if you can scan me a pic of it i can translate to a degree.

The emanage doesn't need any "help" , you start doing that and your piggybacking a piggypack system doesn't lead to good results.

The resistor thing is for the 2.0L Mazda Protege... you wire in a 1K resistor connecting the input MAF signal to the ground to "filter out noise" or provide a "better" signal to the EMB. Having this installed did not allow my car to run correctly, but I am considering installing the resistor to the eManage MAF output wire to see if that will fix the low voltage that it's sends out when the input voltage gets below 1.47 volts. I am not sure why the eManage would output such a low MAF voltage. This doesn't seem right to me. When it happens I am @ 0% on my tps. I calibrated the tps in the EMB support tool software.

About the Boost Cut feature. Above the boost cut, does EMB work normally? How about below? I just enabled it for the first time today to look at it... haven't tried it yet. "How does this feature work?" and "what does it do?" is my basic question.

About the Anti-Engine Stalling. Can anyone explain how that works? I don't get it. The support tool manual isn't any help hear, not explaining what the "gain" is for, the tps value is used for, or what happens after the "time" you select.

Thanks for the help! It's great to have a forum still going helping with the eManage.

[maxgtr2000]

Are you sure you don't have any values on your airflow adjustment map? Or are the airflow adjustment dials set to something other than 0? It sounds like you have a negative number in there somewhere meaning the airflow in is a certain value and the emanage is lowering the value the ecu sees.

The one way the boost cut works is for maf clamping. If you have the greddy or similar map sensor attached to the EMB. You can clamp the maf at ,for example, 3 volts and the ecu will only see 3 volts max coming from the EMB. You can then use the pressure sensor readings to add fuel on your additional injector map. Be careful when doing this initially tuning, like don't floor it because if lets say you are normally at 4 volts at 4500 rpm and you go to 4500 rpm the maf is clamped at 3 volts, the ecu only sees 3 and makes fuel adjustments for 3 volts of airflow reading which equals lean condition.More about it here.
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-forced-induction-forum/34228-how-tune-greddy-e-manage-ultimate.html
There is also a way to use the boost cut feature as a boost controller, read it somewhere you just have to google it.

Anti engine stall is for turbo vehicles that use a bov that vents to atmosphere and usually causes the vehicle to stall immediately after you come of boost, shift, or blow off. This usually happens if the maf is placed before the turbo. In a blow through maf design the car pretty much idles like stock and won't cut off coming off boost and such so I don't use antistall. The values you input allow an electronic throttle position so the car won't shut off, instead of you feathering the throttle to keep the car from shutting off when coming off boost or coasting.



The resistor thing is for the 2.0L Mazda Protege... you wire in a 1K resistor connecting the input MAF signal to the ground to "filter out noise" or provide a "better" signal to the EMB. Having this installed did not allow my car to run correctly, but I am considering installing the resistor to the eManage MAF output wire to see if that will fix the low voltage that it's sends out when the input voltage gets below 1.47 volts. I am not sure why the eManage would output such a low MAF voltage. This doesn't seem right to me. When it happens I am @ 0% on my tps. I calibrated the tps in the EMB support tool software.

About the Boost Cut feature. Above the boost cut, does EMB work normally? How about below? I just enabled it for the first time today to look at it... haven't tried it yet. "How does this feature work?" and "what does it do?" is my basic question.

About the Anti-Engine Stalling. Can anyone explain how that works? I don't get it. The support tool manual isn't any help hear, not explaining what the "gain" is for, the tps value is used for, or what happens after the "time" you select.

Thanks for the help! It's great to have a forum still going helping with the eManage.

[shootz]

Thanks for the info maxgtr2000. For now, I don't need the boost settings, but it's good to know how they work. I just needed to know that the clamp was a clamp on max output. That makes sense to me, but I guess I wanted to hear it from someone else, rather than assume. As for the anti-engine stall feature... the gain and time paramenters don't really make sense to me, so I'm confused by what's happening there. I will disable it and try to figure out what else could be going on. What I need to do is hook the EMB up and start it up and log the idle so I can show you guys waht's happening. I'll post some shots of what my prob is.

BTW, the air adjustment rotary switches are all more or less set to "0", though one of them is extremely sensitive... so I set all of the RPM's that they adjust for at above my max RPM range... so they shouldn't be affecting anything. At idle, I am seeing the airflow adjustment at "0". Does that make sense?

One last thing, tomorrow I'm going to go pick up another EMB unit to see if mine might be slightly defective... I wired an injector input in to the MAF out initially and didn't realize it at first. I cranked and it didn't start... so who knows what that might have done. We'll see if the other unit helps me out or not. I can also swap in/out a different MAF to see if that that'l help. I also want to try a couple different jumper settings to see if those might alleviate my probs too.

[Dzaster]

instead of you feathering the throttle to keep the car from shutting off when coming off boost or coasting.
You know I experience the opposite when idle after boosting. My idle stays high. I find that I'm always adjusting the idle to try and correct this.

[shootz]

So, yesterday I picked up the other EMB. I installed it just the same as the other one I have to see if my unit was malfunctioing. After installi and data logging the only difference seems to be that the green light is one more often :) I still get a MAF Out voltage of .08V (from the EMB) if my input MAF input (from the MAF itself) is lower than 1.46V. This is my continuing problem.

I am not using a resistor on the MAF in, I have the jumpers set at:
J1: 1-2
J2: 1-2
J3: 1-2
J4: Open
J5: Open
J6: Open
J7: 1-2

My engine is a 99 Mazda Priotege 1.6L ZM-DE. I have a hotwire MAF.

My rotary switches for MAF type is 3 - A - 1
All of my airflow adjustment rotary switches are set to "0"

Here's what the problem looks like. MAF in and out range is 0-2.50V .
Throttle range is 0-20%, MAF Adjustment is -10 to +10.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g230/nshootz/idling.jpg

You can see the throttle was tapped a couple times and the resulting MAF values in and out. You can see the yellow line of MAF adjustment does not change... no adjustment at all. The MAF out signal nose dives when idling.

In addition, all of my adjustment maps are at "0" across the Board... I can only guess that the eManage is thinking my MAF is something else... otherwise why else would it output such a low voltage below the 1.48V threshold?

[Accord2nrz]

can you take a screen shot of you main unit parameters and post please?

[shootz]

Here you go:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g230/nshootz/parameters.jpg

I'm actually not using the Anti-Engine Stall Feature, this was an older screen shot... that's the only difference from what I have now.

[maxgtr2000]

First thing i would do is switch out the maf to see if this is the problem, you said you hooked up the injector output wire to it by accident, see if switching it out changes anything. Two things I noticed, your injector settings, I've never seen someone put the same settings before and after, and your dials on the front of the unit are set for airflow adjustments, the start point is 1000 rpm so maybe that is the problem, it could be set to a negative value on the switch; maybe set your switches to 0 on the front adjustment and use the support tools for your changes. Maybe this is something new I don't know about but I have never seen that before. Maybe someone can fill me in.

[Dzaster]

So you haven't set the anti engine stall feature? as for the injectors, I believe he is still N/A and prolly using the stock injectors.

[Mrdb]

I found a bad earth usually causes AFM adjustment when no ajustment is set.