EMB and methanol injection

[Dzaster]

Okay, so much thanks to all you guys who have helped me sort this. I'm sure we're not the first, but in all my research of it, I haven't found anyone who's done it yet on the EMB. There was talk about it on the Emanage Forum, as well as similar thing being alluded to but that was supposedly a tuning shop that was not letting out any secrets--forget what Honda forum that was on.

So, YES, it works. No need for anything optional to be purchased with the EMB--i.e. Multi Switching Systems (http://www.greddy.com/products/display/?Category=electronics&SubCategory=52). All I needed was my EMB and a basic Coolingmist Stage 1 Alcohol Injection Kit.

All I did for wiring was delete the Hobbs pressure switch that comes with the alky injection kit. The pressure switch opened/closed the 12V that triggers the alcohol injection kit's relay--pretty sure most alcohol kits come with a relay.

Then I took the VTEC Solenoid Wire(LIGHT BLUE, pin #8, to sensor) from the EMB and ran it to the alky kit's relay--like ND Neon Guy posted a diagram too further down in this thread. Thank you sir--Neon Guy! Also to be noted, the output signal is ~5V. I may have seen 6, but no matter as it seems to be enough to trigger the relay. The EMB pinouts can be found HERE (http://www.diytuning.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=55) in our Downloads section.


We're not quite done yet with the hardware manipulation. We still need to check that the jumper for VTEC is enabled. I vaguely remember what I did, but I'm pretty sure I enabled jumpers JP4 and JP7 to both jump pins 1-2. This should allow for full use of the VTEC function. Oops! I mean.........alcohol/water injection.


Now that it's wired up you'll need to go into the GReddy Support Tool software. Go to Parameter Settings and enable Auxiliary Output Setting.
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/VTEParam.png




You should now have the option of selecting to open the VTEC map just like you would any of the other maps.
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/VTECMapOpen.png.




Upon clicking that you will see a little 4x4 VTEC map. See below.
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/MethInjectionID.png




Now how it works.

The portion of the map outlined in GREEN is like the other maps. You map ranges--RPM vs Greddy Pressure sensor, TPS, etc.

The portion outlined in PURPLE is set in stone as much as I can figure out with it. It cannot be changed. So you have to jog around your map range(RPM vs psi, etc.) to accommodate for this fixed mapping.

However, the RED is something I have yet to implement, but plan to my next day of testing. Apparently you can alter the Airflow Adjustment to either add fuel or remove. Obviously it would be better to add fuel in the Additional Injector Map, but if you have to remove fuel, like me, then I believe entering a negative value in this box will result in the removal of that fuel value once the injection kicks in.. I'm thinking/hoping it will be across the board--i.e. as long as its "ON".



And lastly, here are some sample images of it working.


Alcohol injection OFF:
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/Alkyoff.png



Alcohol injection ON:
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/Alkyon.png




On the right of the "OFF" plot/line, and on the left of the "ON" plot line in those images, you'll see the grey narrow line. That is the alcohol injection plotted on the datalogged graph. It'll either be all the way up or all teh way down--ON/OFF.


And below, I preserved the questions I asked when I first got the itch to test this. Figure it best to keep it so that readers don't get confused when they read the following posts.


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______________________


I was wondering if the Blue has an output signal of 12v that caned be set to send a 12v signal to my methanol injection relay in order to engage the pump and start da flowin'?

I thought briefly that maybe the sub-injector setting and portion of the harness might be capable, but I really haven't a clue about how the sub-injector's signal is tailored.

Reason being, the kit I have--coolingmist Stage 1--comes with a crappy little boost pressure switch that is adjustable, but I need a vacuum pump with gauge to set it to desired PSI.

[maxgtr2000]

Is it a hobbs switch? If it isn't i would just get one that is easier to adjust. If and when I set up meth injection I may just get one that activates at a set 10 psi.

[shootz]

I think if you enabled the VTEC settings and connected the VTEC output signal to a relay of some sort you could effectively enable a device of some sort to start at preset RPM's according based on the tps, boost pressure, or Airflow value at those RPM's. You get a 4x4 cell grid that allows EMB to control the ON/OFF of each of these cells... The limiting factor is just a matter of what voltage the signal is that the eManage outputs and what kind of relay would work for that to turn on a system like meth injection, water injection, etc. Seems like a cool idea... you could have a pretty sweet setup that way.

[Dzaster]

Is it a hobbs switch? If it isn't i would just get one that is easier to adjust. If and when I set up meth injection I may just get one that activates at a set 10 psi.
It is a Hobbs switch. I've actually got is set at where I want........kinda. This Hobbs switch came set at 10psi, but that is all I plan on running on my car for a while so I needed the meth/water to inject a little earlier.


I think if you enabled the VTEC settings and connected the VTEC output signal to a relay of some sort you could effectively enable a device of some sort to start at preset RPM's according based on the tps, boost pressure, or Airflow value at those RPM's. You get a 4x4 cell grid that allows EMB to control the ON/OFF of each of these cells... The limiting factor is just a matter of what voltage the signal is that the eManage outputs and what kind of relay would work for that to turn on a system like meth injection, water injection, etc. Seems like a cool idea... you could have a pretty sweet setup that way.
This is actually the other option I was leaning towards, the VTEC control deal. This also would be way easier to adjust instead of guess-timating and having to run the car over and over until I get the system to engage when I want it to--this is over the Hobbs switch.

So anybody know the Voltage of the VTEC signal's output voltage?

[Accord2nrz]

Shootz is right on the money with the vtec crossover idea. I am unsure as to the voltage I do not believe it 12V but rather 5. This same idea is used to cut the primary o2 signal on OB2 cars when going into boost so you dont have to fight it when tuning.

Look the blue o2 sensor adapter and then get a resistor (or whatever steps voltage up) to activate your pump that way, then you can set it via the crossover point.

Ask Neon Guy about what to buy at radio shack to step up voltage.

[Dzaster]

Shootz is right on the money with the vtec crossover idea. I am unsure as to the voltage I do not believe it 12V but rather 5. This same idea is used to cut the primary o2 signal on OB2 cars when going into boost so you dont have to fight it when tuning.

Look the blue o2 sensor adapter and then get a resistor (or whatever steps voltage up) to activate your pump that way, then you can set it via the crossover point.

Ask Neon Guy about what to buy at radio shack to step up voltage.
I think its 5V as well.

As for that O2 adpater, is it something to be used on OBD1 as well--which is what my car is? Or are you saying that I'd prolly need that O2 adapter in order to get the EMB to use the auxiliary feature for meth/water injection?

I will send Neon a message now.

[ND_Neon_Guy]

Ok here you go your gonna have to go to autozone and pick up a relay for 5-10 dollars if i was there I would give yoou one because i have stockpiled in my room. lol

but here is a schematic of basically what your gonna wanna do.

as always with electronics diconnect your batteery and remember you can never check your wiring too much.

Good Luck

[ND_Neon_Guy]

ohyeah tell me if it works

[Dzaster]

So you think the 5 volts will be enough to engage the relay. My kit came with that relay and that wiring is pretty much what I was considering doing, just wasn't sure the relay would react off of 5 volts.

Should I step up the voltage somehow to output 12v. I think that is what the other guys here were suggesting.

Thanks though that is a legit little scheme.:D

[ND_Neon_Guy]

youcould always hook it up and find out if does or not if not we would all know.

also you could pick up a smaller relay talk toradio shack

[Accord2nrz]

go with neon guys idea first , is the system only triggers under 12v then 5v won't hurt anything in your system anyhow, it just wont do anything, however if 5v does the trick then run with that and let everyone know so we can do a write up on it and sticky it somewhere =)

[Dzaster]

Will I need to be changing the jumpers?

Also, I have my wideband wired in to the emanage at VTEC solenoid wire (yellow).

I'm guessing I need to use either the VTEC solenoid wire from the ECU sensor(blue) or VTM signal wire(purple).

But which one?

[shootz]

I'm worried that you won't be able to use youe wideband and do the vtec stuff. After looking a the wiring for vtec cars, you have to have a MAP instead of MAF (or so it seems), the Yellow is VTEC out, purple is VTM out, and Light Blue is TEC input. I hope that helps a bit.

[Dzaster]

I am running both stock and the Greddy MAP sensors.

So what is VTM stand for? I search google a bit and wasn't able to find anything on the abbreviation.

[Dzaster]

Here's me old thread! Forgot about it, but it now makes sense for me to get this going right for tuning sake. I went out for some street tuning yesterday and it seems that the hobbs pressure switch is kinda flakey so I am wanting to try and have the meth/water injection triggered with the EMB.

I came up with this two ideas--maps below.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/EMBMethTrigger.png

I have not tested it yet, but I am hoping that the output for the sub-injector is 12V and when made to 100% duty cycle--like that in that Sub-Injector map above--will produce a steady 12V signal that will be good for meth injection relay to trigger the pump. The way I have it setup in that map now it would engage at ~6psi boost, but may not actually begin to spray closer to 7psi because of latency in the whole meth kit from triggering pump to flowing the lines and actually entering the combustion chamber.

The second, VTEC map, is the suggested one, but that operates off of 5V and would most likely need to be boosted to ~12V to trigger the relay reliably. If the sub-injector map idea don't work then I will try the VTEC idea.


The whole idea of using the EMB to control the meth injection, is for ease of changing when meth/water is to be injected. No need to test run and adjust the hobbs switch every time I want to adjust. If it works, it will be a more reliable trigger than the hobbs pressure switch.

[Dzaster]

So I have some good news, although it could have been better.

The EMB is indeed capable of triggering the relay for the meth/water injection.

My first attemp was to use the Sub Injector Map. Since that signal coming out of the EMB to the physical sub-injector is ground, I routed the sub-injector wire from the EMB to the relay's ground--which originally was grounded via the Hobbs switch.

I setup the map like you see in the above post to max out the duty cycle to 100%. I put some at lower RPM so I could test while stationary. It worked, but it pulsed.:mad: That would have been so the way to have such control with teh sub-injector map. Tried changing some variables and still, it pulses and the max gound voltage is like -7V.

Having figured that I can't have the water/meth injection pump pulsing, I proceeded to the second option--VTEC or the Auxiliary Output Map. With this I had to enable the Auxiliary Map accessed in Parameter Settings Then I had to change Jumper 3(JP3) on the EMB circuit board from 1-2 to 2-3.
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/3871/jumper3b.png

The awesome thing is that the output voltage of the VTEC wire from the EMB turned out to be 12V rather thant what we though, 5V. However it was a positive out not negative like the sub-injector so I went a different route when wiring it up to the relay, than I did for the sub-injector.

Because I was eliminating the hobbs/pressure switch(relay gound), I ended up just grounding the relay straight to the chassis. I wired up the VTEC wire to the meth injection relay, to where the pump would only run when key was in the on position(12V Ignition On). This now becomes the means in which the pump powers up--through the 12V signal output by the EMB's VTEC Solenoid output.

VTEC Solenoid Pinout on the EMB
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/889/vtecwire.png


Then I had to setup the Auxiliary Map in the EMB. This I am still not entirely sure as I've had some funky results with when it engages and shuts off.

Here's the map. Notice when it's supposed to be ON and OFF.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/6805/vtec.png


Now here is where I need help understanding the way this map and VTEC operates. Here are two datalogs.

In this first one, you see the RPM vs. the Greddy Sensor voltage(outlined in green) and then you see the Aux Signal Output or VTEC Output(outlined red) and its longged as being Hi--which means activated and is when the meth/water is being injected. Theoretically, the meth/water is not supposed to be switched on at this point. The Greddy Sensor voltage is at .68V.:confused:
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8298/vtectometh1.png


So I made some changes with the Auxiliary Output Map and this is what I set it to.
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/750/vtecmapmethtrigger.png


However, check this log point. Again, at this point the Greddy Sensor is at .65V but the Aux Output is still reading Hi
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/5155/vtectometh2.png


So from what it seems like sometimes the largest problem is that when I am coasting down in gear(RPM's high) from a decent pull, the AUX output stays on. It'll disengage once thr RPM's come down so what I had to do was put the car in neutral.

Can any of you Honda guys that are using or have an understanding of this VTEC map shed some light on perhaps how I can get this all set right to where when I come off boost(no boost) the AUX output disengages no matter the RPM.

[maxgtr2000]

Try a different scaling maybe? Maybe the jump from .50 to 1.70 is too high? Another thing you can try is just input the rpms you are at boost and the voltage for the sensor and put everything in the map to on. It shouldn't be on unless you are in the rpm and sensor voltage range anyway.

[CG10DET]

I was thinking about your problem with the pulsing, is it not possible to use a regulator circuit and a capacitor to smooth the signal? Ideally you need to check with an oscilloscope to see the waveform first, but it should be possible.

[Dzaster]

I was wondering if there were anything that couldbe done about eliminating pulsing. I'll look into it as I'd way rather have a 16x16 map to work with. Thanks.

[CG10DET]

There'll be a way for the capacitor to charge when the voltage is there, and when the voltage drops in the pulse the capacitor should discharge to smooth it out. Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

[Dzaster]

Can't say that I do have access to one of those. I have a digital multi meter and that's it.

I have been looking online for the past hour about either voltage stabilization for 12V or for 6-7V ground.

I was thinking of going down to radio to look at some stuff they got.

I found this little diagram online.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f145/dyn2liv/SwitchedCapBank.gif

[CG10DET]

That's not really suitable for your application, although a nice bank of capacitors go bang pretty impressively :)

I'll try and come up with something.

[CG10DET]

Ok, without a scope you're going to have to just keep experimenting till you get one that gives you a continuous output, with a scope you could check the wave.

But you need to connect a capacitor (the ones you get may be polarised, so be careful to connect them the right way around) between your pulsed 5v signal and your relative ground cable.

You shouldn't need one too big, so just get a bunch of different ones and try them, on your map set it to inject at a low rev and low throttle so you can free rev it to test, and just catch your methanol in a jug instead of injecting it into the manifold. It should work.

Should give you something like this
http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/smoothed-output.gif

[Dzaster]

I picked up a couple capacitors. The re the cylinder type with wire leads on opposing ends. There is a arrow that would suggest seem to suggest floe of current, but I am unclear on wiring them in. Is the capacitor to be bridged between the pos. and neg.? If so which one do we think the arrow should be point to--pos. or neg.?

Also the output from the Sub-Injector is negative so if it don't work on the negative side than I will have to wire it in the ignition 12V to the meth kit relay instead.

So I guess I need to find out about wiring in that capacitor properly.

Also, thanks for your help thus far.

[CG10DET]

it needs to be bridged from the injectors input to the ground, the arrow is usually the positive side.

If your signal to your methanol injector is -5v then connect the negative side of the cap to the injector signal input and the positive side to the relating earth, as that is 5v higher.

I've added you to MSN incase you have any questions.

[Dzaster]

Cool! I'll give it a whirl. I am paranoid so I even wired in a small auto fuse. Not sure it will do anything, but makes me a feel a little better. lol.

Hmmmmm............not seeing you on IM right now. But, yes, I'm always game for Cyber Friends.:p

[CG10DET]

I Tried adding again, however, just keep giving those capacitors a go, they seem to be helping a bit with my simulations but not totally curing it. I'll keep working on it, does the pulse go between -5 and 0v?

And also, approximately how long does the pulse last for? is it fast or slow?

[Dzaster]

Yeah, I found nthe polarity deal with the capacitor.

http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:dUZlhiFQRe8J:www.wjoe.com/capacitorinfo.htm+how+to+find+out+the+polarity+of+ capacitor&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=opera

However, I am not so sure the capacitor can be used effectively with a negative polarity. The ground/negative is always drawing or absorbing current therefore having the capacitor store power is of no use. It needs and official ground.

BTW, I've actually tried what you suggested with two different sizes and a couple different arrangements.

Also, the Meth kit has a nozzle, not neccessarily an injector(as in powered fuel injector). The nozzle hole size versus meth pump psi determines the output of the meth/water entering the system. It's simply power on and power off of the pump.

Perhaps ones way to get this working is by having the negative polarity, coming out of the EMB for the Sub-Injector, reversed so that it's out put becomes positive and then have the capacitor stabilize the positive pulsing voltage.

Sound stupid?:confused:

[CG10DET]

voltage is relative. so 10v to 5v is the same as 0 to -5v

However electrolitic capacitors may be funny about it, Is it a negative 5v out of the emb? and also what is the minimum voltage your pump will run on? It may be possible to centre tap it(voltage divider), and have 5 to 2.5v giving you a voltage of 2.5v

[CG10DET]

I have a way to get you 3.3v from -5v Is that any use?

[Dzaster]

Actually the pump has its own power as well as ground. I know the EMB's sub-injector out is roughly -6 to -7 output. I tested it the first time. That little negative voltage was enough to trigger the kit's relay.

You asked about pulse earlier. Pulse is dependent upon the duty cycle I input for the Sub-Injector map. 100% duty cycle was quick pulsing, but still pulsing.

You are some kind of wiring nerd aren't you. :p Joke man. Just sounds like you've done your share of wiring.

Also, I am definetly willing to give it a try as long as it ain't too expensive and I can understand the directions well enough.

[CG10DET]

Apologies I missed your message last night as I was in bed, but here is the circuit for converting a -5v to 3.3v

http://www.electronicsweekly.com/Articles/2009/04/03/45970/power-circuit-diagram-convert-negative-inputs-to-positive-outputs.htm

It's done with 2 IC chips.

I think though that you don't need it, you just need to build a Peak Detect and Hold circuit, I think that is possibly the best way.

I think that the Peak Detect and Hold is the best, as although the capacitor should work, but the different size capacitors will work best in different circumstances, so if the speed of the pulse varies, each time it changes a different capacitor would be ideal, where as the peak detect and hold, should be able to hold the peak voltage throughout the drops.

[CG10DET]

I have a very simple and cheap solution to this now.

It requires some cable.
a 2N222 NPN transistor and a resistor.

I have simulated this and it seems to be working.

I first need to know what MAP voltage you need this to inject at.

I have simulated it for 2v MAP, you need to splice your 0-5V Map signal before the ECU (so you still have it going to the ecu) the wire you add on to it, would go to a resistor, then to the BASE of the transistor.

You then need to wire a 12v supply from your battery to your injector/pump, and the negative side of the injector/pump goes to the COLLECTOR of the transistor, and then your Emittor just connects to ground.

The way this will work is that when your MAP sensor reaches 2V it will cause the 12v battery supply to switch, once the voltage drops below 2v the voltage will be inadequate for the transistor to come on, therfore cutting the voltage to your pump.

I have attached the schematic, obviousl you would replace the lamp with your 12v pump, If you tell me what voltage you wish your system to trigger at, and the MINIMUM operating voltage of the pump, I can adjust the circuit to suit, see attached PDF.



CORRECTION:
The resistor may need to be much higher, I have just been checking with the voltmeter and there's still
11v at 5M
7.8v at 6M
5.2v at 7M
3.5v at 8M
2.3 at 9M

So I will be able to get you the correct values when I know what is the minimum voltage for the pump and also the voltage you require it to trigger at.

[Dzaster]

Man, I really admire the time you put into this, but I was hoping to have it controlled by the EMB so I can adjust via a one of the maps liek teh VTEC map or Sub-Injector map.

See right now I would do ~2V(Greddy MAP Sensor) for ~7psi trigger.

I say Greddy MAP sensor because my stock map sensor is not boost compliant--NA checkvalve inline.

Although more accurate, it would sorta be like using the pressure switch again.

Would just be nice to have the map to determine trigger.

[CG10DET]

If you replaced the resistor with a linear potentiometer you would have adjustment by turning the screw then.

To do it directly off that pulse is gonna take some clever electronics, probably a peak hold circuit with a 555 timer to reset it, or a PIC system.

I'll carry on playing :)

[maxgtr2000]

Maybe you can try this circuit from the 12volt.com (http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#pts) Alot of good circuits and info on that site pertaining to simple car electronics. It's the pulsed to steady output one, try that one with the additional injector map and see if it works.Man, I really admire the time you put into this, but I was hoping to have it controlled by the EMB so I can adjust via a one of the maps liek teh VTEC map or Sub-Injector map.

See right now I would do ~2V(Greddy MAP Sensor) for ~7psi trigger.

I say Greddy MAP sensor because my stock map sensor is not boost compliant--NA checkvalve inline.

Although more accurate, it would sorta be like using the pressure switch again.

Would just be nice to have the map to determine trigger.

[Dzaster]

I'll carry on playing :)
For the greater good of all EMB users.;) And I guess that would be decent control there.


maxgtr2000, I looked on there briefly, but not enough to find anything useful. You on the other hand may have steered us towards something promising. This only looks like it would be best suited for the negative (-) EMB Sub-Injector pulse signal to have an output of 12V. That's an increase in voltage to the correct voltage(12V) and positive works as well. Thanks. I will be trying this today if I can find a relay.
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/SubInjRelay.png

Not sure about getting that second coil, once energized, to disengage. Hmmmmmm......................Stoming the Brain.

[CG10DET]

I have found a solution that works.

When you use the additional injection map, as long as the voltage is a postive pulse then it will DEFINATELY work

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#pts

That is the link to the schematic.

the +12v from turn signal you need to connect instead the e-manage output for the injector.

The fused 12v is from the battery, and the output goes to the relay for your pump.

I have simulated this and can guarantee that it DOES give a steady and solid 12v output

[CG10DET]

Right, as you said on MSN that the output is a -12v I have this working now using a -12v.

You use an LM741 Operational Amplifier to convert it.

http://www.elecfree.com/electronic/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/negative-to-positive-voltage-supply-with-lm741.jpg

You use that circuit, depending on which op-amp you have pins 7 and 4 may need reversing.

if you build the first circuit then disconnect the live to the relay and connect it to Vin, then on Vout you connect to your relay (so this circuit sits between the others)

Then you just need to give it a switched battery supply on either pin 7 or 4, on the op-amp i tested with it was pin 4. I would add my schematic but the file size is too big :(

[Dzaster]

its a -6 to -7 voltage out.

However, I noticed something really weird today when I had was testing the out from that sub-injector signal. When it engages the car sputters with it. However, I know that the jumper is not set inside because I checked when I adjusted with the VTEC solenoid jumper. Thing is it was never on the first time either, but when it was studdering the first time, I thought it was just the meth causing it to do that. I'm wondering if I put the jumper on tommorrow it will no longer studder. Just doesn't seem practical that using teh sub-injector would cause a studder problem, making it useless.

I will give that a look tommorrow as well Phil. Perhaps see if I can get that here. So that is to reverse the polarity right or does that also stabilize teh pulsing?

[CG10DET]

that both reverses the polarity AND stabilises the output.

[Dzaster]

Cool!

I've set the sub-injector jumpers this morning and same thing. Seems like the sub-injectors will work whether you set the jumpers or not.

As for the funky studdering, it happen at 90 and 100% duty cycle. When i dropped it down to 30% duty cycle the studdering was non-existent. I'll do a little more testing to see the highest duty cycle I can get without the studdering of the engine.

[Dzaster]

So as maxgtr2000 suggested I changed up the RPM and Greddy MAP Voltage scaling. However, cannot change the 4x4 boxes. Those are fixed. Anyways, I changed them to what you see below and it runs correctly.
http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/NewVtec.png


Engages at roughly 7psi or little less if RPM is up a bit. The best part is that it disengages when it should. Before I was coming out of 3rd put it in 4th and coasting(no throttle) and it was still injecting meth. Fixed now though.

Very please with the way it ran, but the sub-injector map would just be awesome to have.

[Dzaster]

Oh, I've come across the real solution to this. A Pulse Width Modulating valve/injector. It should act like a real injector in that the sub-injecotor map would maintaint pulse width with the actual fuel injectors.

Seems to be the way to go, as long as it can be easily aquired and ain't way crazy for the budget. See a good writeup on it HERE (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1413320).

[Dzaster]

BUMP for first post edit with a sorta DIY.:D

[wishiwasfast]

So did you lose the wbo2 connection into the emb? Or what wire did you go to with it?

[Dzaster]

Since wiring EMB into my car excludes the EMB's TPS, I use the EMB's TPS(Grey) wire to receive the WBO2 signal. My car has an Open/Close type TPS signal so it useless.

[wishiwasfast]

Oh, ok. So basically if you run a tps, with the meth injection wired as you do. The wbo2 is lost through the emb, correct?

[Dzaster]

There is also the Greddy Boost Pressure sensor port, but most folks use the Greddy MAP sensor. If you use the EmanageTools software these are your options for datalogging WBO2.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc340/dzaster96799/Tuning/WBO2options.png